Scarpa climbing shoes review Nothing special just £40 climbing shoes. Size these shoes tight, and they edge well enough to excel at bouldering and sport climbing. 10 (5c) to 5. It’s got a full-length midsole and outsole, but it also has a moderate asymmetry and subtle downturn. Its incredible feel and stickiness will give you confidence standing on tiny jibs, smearing slippery volumes, and snagging toe hooks and heel hooks that you never Aug 19, 2024 · After smedging my way up an uncomfortable 5. D. No. 12 (7a+) climber seeking a high performance generalist for sport climbing and bouldering that won’t cramp your The Scarpa Vapor V falls into the all-arounder category. Combining a forgiving fit for all-day comfort, with surprisingly decent performance in the I stretched out my first pair of Evolvs quite a bit because I didn’t size them down small enough — wasn’t used to the tightness. Fast forward three months and the Quantix are currently my go-to shoe for everything from conglomerate sport climbs to Kilter Boards to technical granite boulder problems. It has all the capability that most climbers need to climb into the 5. To be clear, the Quantic is certainly a cut above more than half of the climbing shoes on the market, and I’d take it over most other brands. Matt Samet is a freelance writer and editor based in Boulder, Colorado, where he lives with his family. Mar 14, 2024 · So, to conclude the Scarpa Origin VS are a great and easy-to-wear climbing shoe, perfectly comfortable to wear all day long both for indoor and outdoor climbing. Soft but still supportive, the Scarpa Instinct VSR is the ultimate quiver of one shoe. Jun 28, 2023 · The Scarpa Chimera climbing shoe is equally adept indoors and outside. In this Scarpa Veloce review, I’m going to take a deep dive into every performance and design feature I have observed over the last few months of testing this shoe. Shoe Technology . 5 years later the vast majority of shoes I’ve owned, climbed in, and sent projects have been Sportiva. The result is an unusual level of comfort given the shoe’s high level of functional overlap with the beak-shaped sport climbing shoes I listed above. Nov 29, 2021 · Pitched as a versatile leather climbing shoe, these Scarpa shoes will serve climbers in a reasonably wide variety of uses. A comfortable performance shoe that thrives at bagging hard sport routes and boulder problems. 12. 3 oz, the Air takes sensitive, high-performance climbing shoes to their absolute extreme. Every detail is studied to ensure grip, comfort and protection such as the all-around TPU rand, which is abrasion resistant. Apr 9, 2021 · SCARPA say: The Booster is light, ultra-sensitive shoe bouldering and sport climbing on small edges and smears. Dec 20, 2023 · I packed three pairs of high-performance climbing shoes for a trip to the Red River Gorge this fall: Scarpa’s Mago, La Sportiva’s Miura VS, and the new Vapor S. Though it may not be ideal for all foot shapes, this shoe if fitted well has the potential to be great at nearly every aspect of climbing. Penny: I've used the Vapour S exclusively for bouldering and much like Rob, I haven't used much else since they arrived as I've liked them that much. . However, if the type of climbing you prefer demands maximum sensitivity while still allowing ample opportunities to rest your feet, then the Scarpa Veloce is an affordable shoe to consider. 4 out of 5 stars 114 ratings. Aug 2, 2023 · Scarpa’s Instinct VSR was named a Climbing magazine Editor’s Choice in 2017 right after launch, and this shoe still stands up as a worthy competitor to newer models with more advanced technology. These shoes are at home on an overhanging boulder problem where toe hooks, heel hooks, and knee bars are the name of the game. The Scarpas stretched a little but not a ton. The wide-ish fit in the toe doesn't cram into smaller pockets like the pointy Tenaya Tarifa, but they are much stiffer than the Tarifa, and our testers found them better for standing on the edges of the vertical pocketed limestone of Wild Iris. For over a decade, our climbing experts have tested over 75 shoes side-by-side to bring you the most comprehensive climbing shoe review in existence. With several critical and welcome changes to the shoe’s construction in 2022, the Scarpa Mar 20, 2022 · The Scarpa Instinct VS is an ideal climbing shoe for intermediates who climb indoors to push their limits on the steep routes that make up most of the terrain. Jul 23, 2024 · The Scarpa Crux is a rough-and-tough, do-it-all workhorse of an approach shoe at a great price point. the rubber has good friction and the toe profile should shut a wide variety of foot shapes whilst offering reasonable precision for intricate footwear. Dec 11, 2018 · Watch BEFORE Buying! - SCARPA Climbing Shoes: What to (Honestly!) Expect With. For a similarly high level of all-around performance as other options, with even more protection and a slightly wider fit, the Generator Mid should be a shoe you consider for all your trad climbing needs. Apr 2, 2023 · Scarpa Drago is the ultimate climbing shoe for sport climbing, excelling in face climbing on limestone, granite, conglomerate, and sandstone. It worked for us! Jul 23, 2024 · Perfect for users with wider-than-average feet, these shoes can do it all, from 5th-class climbing to long approaches to aid climbing. I hope you have enjoyed my Scarpa Drago review. Its edging and smearing capabilities instill confidence across varied terrain, enabling climbers to keep their lower body close to the wall and reduce arm strain on overhanging routes. Feb 22, 2020 · The Scarpa Vortex XCR GTX now has pride of place in the Scarpa classics range, and in my view, for good reason. See full list on climbingshoereview. Their downturned shape excels in the realm of steep climbing, and they also have a softness underfoot that, if sized bigger, make these shoes great for long days. Mar 18, 2016 · With the Origin, Scarpa flipped the script. She loves backpacking, sport climbing, and nerding out about gear. The only model that gives it a run for its money is the Scarpa Chimera. These bouldering beasts are best suited for those with the foot strength that Aug 8, 2023 · SCARPA Vapor S Climbing Shoe: Review The Fit (Photo/SCARPA) The Vapor S has the perfect forefoot profile for my wide but vertically thin foot. The VSR can do it all. Apr 12, 2024 · Third, I remembered why I’d spent the first 13 years of my climbing career preferring stiff shoes. I found the Quantic to be a bit too stiff for my taste, which led to a lengthy break-in period. The Scarpa Helix is an excellent entry-level or all-day climbing shoe made with precision and care. Jun 24, 2024 · Scarpa Force - top in class comfort and edging performance . While it is clear that the shoe is designed with the beginner climber in mind, and certainly lacks the performance of more expensive Scrape models, the Velocity V holds its own in the gym and outside too. The Helix is a flat shoe, allowing for all-day comfort. It has a narrow toe box, sticky leather for excellent climbing ability, and a cushioned leather upper and stiff sole for plenty of support. The new shoe carries the same DNA, but is more widely usable. Feb 24, 2025 · The Drago XT is a slightly tweaked version of the venerable Scarpa Drago. This is my go-to shoe when I need a versatile boulder and sport climbing shoe with serious sending ability. #63 in Men's Climbing Shoes; Customer Reviews: 4. The latest version, released in 2017, is the Force V. Nov 14, 2024 · We tested and reviewed the best women's climbing shoes of 2025, including picks from La Sportiva, SCARPA, and more. A good edging shoe also does a great job toeing into the lip of a pocket, and the Scarpa Instinct is no exception. While Scarpa always seems to be pushing the price ceiling higher for climbing shoes, if big walls, gobies, and adventure are what you eat Jun 14, 2024 · Scarpa describe the width as medium, but compared to every other climbing shoe I own I'd say it comes out fairly wide in the forefoot - notably broader than something like the Helix despite the fact that this alternative comfy model is classed by Scarpa as wide! Jun 4, 2024 · What Other Climbing Shoes Should You Consider? The La Sportiva Solution Comp is very similar to the Scarpa Booster and is a great alternative shoe for climbing steep and overhanging terrain. Mary Andino 5 articles. Mar 13, 2025 · SCARPA Rapid XT SCARPA say: “RAPID XT is a comfortable leather shoe with a clean design which is suitable for approach, trail and light hiking. For indoor gym use, they’re suitable for most beginner to intermediate sport and top routes. Jun 16, 2020 · The Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco is designed to prevent the pain and preserve the fun. These are some of the softest climbing shoes we’ve ever tried, and wearing them doesn’t feel dissimilar to climbing in socks. Jul 19, 2022 · The new (2022) Instinct S is Scarpa’s third iteration of the slipper in their now 13-year-old Instinct line. These shoes prioritize comfort and performance, allowing you to focus on improving your technique and enjoying your climbing sessions. 4 4. 5 for Scarpa climbing shoes so they currently come up a nice ‘performance fit’. That’s a mission we can get behind, and slipping into this shoe was a dream. Both Scarpa and La Sportiva have developed technology that has driven climbing shoe innovation over the decades. Jul 1, 2020 · My normal shoe size is a UK 8 and often fit a UK7. Lovely though it is to feel each and every rugosity beneath your feet, there's no benefit to that for trad climbing if you're not able to stand on it for 30 minutes whilst fiddling in a wire, building a belay, or trying not to have a panic attack. Our Scarpa Helix Review: All About This Stellar Shoe. These Italians have been churning out world-class performance shoes that have solidified the company’s spot as a world-class shoe manufacturer. If your goal is steep climbing where you need to stand on vague features and pull on slopey holds, this is the shoe you want on your feet. Mary Andino is a Ph. Great construction quality means the shoe should last longer than other majority-mesh options we tested. These shoes seriously impressed us with their excellent climbing ability, hiking comfort, durability, and overall support. I'm still using my beginner shoes that I got from a sports shop called Decathlon. Dec 19, 2023 · The Scarpa Mescalito Planet emerged from our testing as our favorite approach shoe for wider feet. Best For: Indoor bouldering and training Summary: When Scarpa adds a shoe to its Instinct line, you know exactly what to expect. 3 cam-sized cracks // The tongue’s inner and outer layers have come unglued, separating like a quesadilla without enough cheese, which is functionally inconsequential but aesthetically displeasing // Not a go-to shoe for steep terrain due to its stiffness and flat last Nov 21, 2019 · The Arpia is Scarpa's attempt to provide a shoe for the intermediate climber — someone who wants a bit more from their shoe than the very basic, flat introductory climbing shoe offers but doesn't want to commit to a fully downturned, aggressively shaped talon used by more advanced climbers. The soft and sensitive profile is awesome for smearing on the gym walls and adapting to all the weird Jun 10, 2022 · The Scarpa Furia Air climbing shoe is Scarpa’s lightest shoe to date. For the average 5. Best For: Comfortable climbing sessions Summary: I was pleasantly surprised by the performance of Scrapa’s budget shoe. It’s just not my favorite of Scarpa’s sterling lineup of climbing shoes. On the face of it, the models are nearly alike. On the face of it, the Apr 30, 2021 · Ultra-soft climbing shoes are not ideal for every situation or climber. Most of our testers found it to be a supremely comfortable and effective shoe for trad and crack climbing. Apr 21, 2022 · With more performance-oriented engineering than climbing shoes aimed at beginners, Vapors are worth looking for those who feel limited by their current shoes on smaller foot holds, vertical to overhanging walls, and more technically demanding footwork. Pockets. Nevertheless, the Veloce is a brilliant gym shoe that has redefined how I think about beginner climbing shoes. The Scarpa Instinct Lace is probably the best all-around climbing shoe on the market. Nov 10, 2023 · This Scarpa vegan shoe is destined for a life of gym climbing. Considering that we needed to size up to correctly fit the Booster, the Solution Comp has a bit wider toe box that might fit some feet better. Edging Jan 2, 2024 · The Scarpa Drago is one of the softest and most sensitive climbing shoes that we've tried. Jan 2, 2024 · The Scarpa Chimera is a premium climbing shoe designed for modern boulder problems and steep routes. My gym grades: White: V0 Yellow: V0-V2 Blue: V1-V3 Purple: V2-V4 Black: V3-V5 Red: V4-V6 I can comfortably climb the purples (V2-V4). Mar 4, 2022 · A pioneer in the category of super-soft, sensitive shoes designed to crush steep terrain–and one of the first climbing shoe models to break the $200 price barrier–the Scarpa Drago is an elite piece of gear for serious climbers in the gym and outdoors. Both models offer outstanding performance and exceptional quality. He has been May 2, 2021 · The Scarpa Vapor V is a workhorse. 2-0. The shoe excels the most for hard bouldering and sport climbing, much like its counterpart the Instinct VS or VSR. In a market dominated by softer climbing shoes, stiffness and support are hard to come by; but here's a model that bucks the trend. of Climbing Shoes: 34 Founded: 1938 Location: Asolo, Italy I've been climbing for about 4-5 months now and climbed my first V3-V5 yesterday. We wore these shoes on everything from steep limestone sport climbing to smeary sandstone bouldering. They offer the grip, precision, and control you need to send it on any problem or route. The sole is Vibram® MegaGrip with climbing zones at the… The brainchild of Scarpa shoe genius Heinz Mariacher, the Scarpa Chimera is “the pinnacle of modern climbing shoe design and innovation” and without mincing words – it’s true. 11 warm up, I quickly traded the Veloce L for some more traditional edging shoes. Its ultra-stiff sole provides ample support while the thick leather upper supplies plenty of padding and ankle protection. An asymmetrical, downturned shape and a one-third length Vibram® XS Grips 2 sole creates a flexible shoe that allows more natural movement through overhanging, thin routes. Jan 18, 2023 · The Scarpa Origin is a humble shoe that won’t turn many eyes at the crag. Nov 13, 2020 · The Booster is light, ultra-sensitive shoe bouldering and sport climbing on small edges and smears. It fit my forefoot without any bagging or excessive Aug 17, 2017 · Scarpa gave a minor update to their Force line of climbing shoes. The Scarpa Furia is an incredibly soft, yet aggressively shaped shoe designed for steep, bouldery climbing. Matt Samet 12 articles. It's nice to have shoes that I trust completely for climbing but don't want to pull off the instant I finish. Jul 13, 2022 · SCARPA has taken this on with two recent shoes, the Quantic, which came out in 2021, and the new Quantix SF, out for 2022. They aren't cheap, but they are built to last The TX Guide is a great option for those with narrow feet, offering hiking support and excellent climbing precision May 13, 2021 · 2021 SCARPA Boostic Climbing Shoe Review While soft “rubber sock”-style shoes often come with a very thin midsole or no midsole at all, the Boostic is built with a robust curved midsole that Shop for Scarpa Men's Climbing Shoes at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Size them bigger, and it's game for all-day multi-pitch action with plenty of stiffness and support for the long haul. Weighing in at just 5. A precise toe and stiff construction combine for a technical climbing prowess on par with low-performance climbing shoes Jan 3, 2023 · The latest and third iteration of the SCARPA Vapor returns the lace-up to its roots, with a leather upper and footbed to bring more stretch, give, and comfort to one of the stiffest, most precise Apr 9, 2025 · Climbing Rock climbing shoes Reviews Scarpa. I have never been more impressed with a shoe that I expected to dislike. Nov 8, 2024 · After going down the climbing shoe review rabbit hole I decided on a pair of Solutions. (For that style I loved La Sportiva’s upgraded Miura VS [review here], Scarpa’s Quantix [review here], and Ocun’s Sigma [review here]—all of which are mildly down-turned and quite stiff. The biggest difference is the closure system--velcro for the Drago and laces for the Chimera. , editor, and writer based in the Midwest. They excel specifically indoors and when outdoor bouldering and the combination of the super soft rubber with the microfiber upper is a masterstroke in my eyes, making the shoes feel weightless whilst performing as heavy hitters in the climbing shoe world. 12+ / V8 range in a less aggressive package than many of its high-performance peers. Billed as the most flexible Instinct, it is a moderately downturned, mildly asymmetrical pull-on slipper with a microfiber upper, designed for steep sport (vertical-to-overhanging), bouldering, and gym climbing. The Solution, Skwama, and more recently Theory. SCARPA has been at the forefront of outdoor footwear since 1938, with a 50-year history of manufacturing climbing shoes. Nov 11, 2023 · Unlike La Sportiva, Scarpa, has a decent number of vegan climbing shoes in its range, including the Veloce, Velocity, Vapor V, Boostic, Furia Air, and Quantic. It was my first time visiting the area and I wanted to be prepared. Outdoor Aug 16, 2023 · The toe profile is slightly taller than other crack-climbing shoes on the market, making the Generator a second choice for 0. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Jun 6, 2023 · This is a shoe that I could wear pitch after pitch after pitch, and it'd still feel great - which isn't something I could say for many climbing shoes. All in all, the Scarpa Helix is a great starter pair of climbing shoes to make life-long friends as well. ) Not a very stiff shoe… Nov 12, 2024 · The Arpia V is sitting at the intersection between these competing philosophies. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Sep 5, 2023 · T hese days rock shoes seem to be getting softer and softer, making the quest to find a supportive trad shoe increasingly tough. I might suggest a cheaper pair for your first ever climbing shoe just until you get a sense for what they’re like. Mar 1, 2024 · Scarpa Quantic review. In the gym, its secure, slipper-like fit makes it a dream for the bouldering cave and overhanging lead routes. Scarpa has a massive range of climbing shoes, and one of the interesting ways they distinguish between models is by fit. The shoe maintains its all-day comfort objective with supple padding and a flat last. They would be OK for personal multi pitch climbing but too tight for client work so if comfort is an important factor for you then you may need your normal shoes size. Apr 16, 2025 · Whether you're trad climbing, bouldering, or crack climbing, climbing shoes are a must, no matter your style. However, the Origin is much more comfortable compared to the bevy of aggressive climbing shoes marketed to bouldering and sport climbers. And as a nice added bonus, they look awesome. I’ve has this approach shoe for over 18 months now and have worn it approaching the crag, crossing boggy moorland, hiked up rough mountain trails and walked what must be over a thousand miles around the city and it’s never let me down…not once. Easier boulder problems at the gym should also be possible. Jul 17, 2024 · Climbing Rock bouldering climbing shoes Reviews Scarpa. Jul 14, 2023 · The SCARPA Men’s Reflex V Rock Climbing Shoes offer great value for beginners and intermediate climbers looking for a comfortable and durable shoe for gym climbing. com Jun 17, 2022 · The fit is basically the same between the two models despite the slightly different soles and rands. Their legendary designer Heinz Mariacher put his energy into this $89 Velcro job with leather upper “to encourage people to start climbing,” Scarpa says. The changes in the design include a rounder toe box, less stiffness, and, of course, new colors. ooclf qguqa fpchi ucgchac kikn hzdty ccg povbkn kix cais uywz euqof csk wsaegj ubxzmc