Famous alpine climber wikipedia Lowe was the 1990 recipient of the American Alpine Club's Robert and Miriam Underhill Award, renamed the Pinnacle Award in 2022. A. Trevor Braham (2004), When the Alps Cast Their Spell: Mountaineers of the Golden Age of Alpinism (publisher: In Pinn) It was the first time a mountaineering expedition succeeded in scaling an eight-thousander using alpine style climbing. Alpine climbing. , Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons. Honnold rose to worldwide fame in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo a full route on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park (via the 2,900-foot route Freerider at 5. By the mid-1950s he had begun to specialize in very short, acrobatic routes on outcrops and boulders, establishing problems in the 1950s and early 1960s considerably harder than those existing at the time. In climbing and mountaineering, a traverse is a section of a climbing route where the climber moves laterally (or horizontally), as opposed to in an upward direction. Dani Arnold holds or has held several speed records on the six great north faces of the Alps: Eiger North Face (2011) – New record with 2 hours 28 minutes via the Heckmair route, breaking Ueli Steck's best time. 13a, Charles Snead Houston [note 1] (August 24, 1913 – September 27, 2009) was an American physician, mountaineer, high-altitude investigator, inventor, author, film-maker, and former Peace Corps administrator. On May 1, 1963, he became the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest as a member of the American Mount Everest Expedition led by Norman Dyhrenfurth, alongside the Sherpa Nawang Gombu, a nephew of Tenzing Norgay. Theodore Howard Somervell OBE, FRCS (16 April 1890 – 23 January 1975) was an English surgeon, mountaineer, painter and missionary who was a member of two expeditions to Mount Everest in the 1920s, and then spent nearly 40 years working as a doctor in India. The route is also one of the famous six alpine routes that first ascended the great north faces of the Alps. The award is given "annually to a person who, in the opinion of the selection committee, has demonstrated the highest level of skill in the mountaineering arts and who, through the application of this skill, courage, and perseverance, has achieved outstanding success The following is a list of notable first ascents of the summits of major mountains around the world, in chronological order. Predictable, yes, but undoubtedly the world’s most Ice climber and climbing author Raphael Slawinski wrote in the American Alpine Journal: "By the early 1980s ice climbing, from being merely one of the techniques in the alpinist's arsenal, had evolved into a full-blown technical art. Fifty Classic Climbs of North America is a 1979 climbing guidebook and history written by Steve Roper and Allen Steck. Gaston Rébuffat was born on 7 May 1921 in Marseilles, France. [16] He was buried at the base of K2, in accordance with his family's wishes. In 1873, the German and Austrian clubs joined to form the German and Austrian Alpine Club. Members of After the Yellow Band, the routes diverge with climbers bound for Everest taking a left over the Geneva Spur up to the South Col, while Lhotse climbers take a right further up the Lhotse face. Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey (14 January 1923 – 30 October 2017), known as Fred Beckey, was an American rock climber, mountaineer and book author, who in seven decades of climbing achieved hundreds of first ascents of some of the tallest peaks and most important routes throughout Alaska, the Canadian Rockies and the Pacific Northwest. As of May 2022, there had been 1,089 successful summits and 22 deaths on Lhotse. He has reached the summit of Mount Everest 18 times—the most of any non-Nepali. 9 C2). May 20, 2022 · Conrad Anker (November 27, 1962) is an American climber, primarily known for his alpinism and high-altitude mountaineering. Steve McClure (born 25 July 1970) is a British rock climber and climbing author, who is widely regarded as Britain's leading and most important sport climber for a period that extends for over two decades, starting from the late 1990s. Sir Edmund Hillary. B. [2]September 13: 4th ascent: First direct ascent of the Lion ridge as it is climbed today by Jean-Joseph and Jean-Pierre Maquignaz. In September 1911, Kaufmann acted as guide for Joel Ellis Fischer, Jr. Barry Chapman Bishop (January 13, 1932 – September 24, 1994 [1]) was an American mountaineer, scientist, photographer and scholar. [18] At the age of 12, Destivelle became a member of the Club alpin français, and started bouldering in Fontainebleau, [4] multi-pitch big wall climbing in Burgundy, and alpine climbing in the Massif des Écrins. He won the European Championship in competition bouldering in 2007 and the European Championship in competition lead climbing in 2006. She won the gold medal at the 2011 International Federation of Sport Climbing World Championships in Arco, Italy, for Female Overall, placed gold in First woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders in alpine style, without supplemental oxygen or porters Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 13 December 1970) is an Austrian mountaineer . One of the most famous alpine climbing routes is the 1938 Heckmair Route (ED2 V− A0 60 degrees), on the north face of the Eiger. [47] Jul 23, 2023 · Below, you’ll find famous climbers, past and present, who are known to hardcore climbers and non-climbers, climbers who have ventured out into the YouTube space, and climbers who have done some badass stuff. This list may not reflect recent changes. He began climbing at the age of 14 in the Calanques near Marseilles. Sasha DiGiulian (born October 23, 1992) is an American professional rock climber who specializes in outdoor sport and big wall climbing with a background in competition climbing and bouldering. John Gill began mountain and rock climbing in 1953 as a traditional climber. He is known for his solo ascents–often in winter–of major ice and alpine climbing routes . [5] James W. Davis has made free solo climbing a specialty and is "one of the world's most experienced" free solo climbers. [1] [2] Born and raised in Seattle, Washington. For years, 36-year-old Zangerl has proven to be one of the most versatile climbers in the game. 1. g. He is one of Britain's leading alpine and high altitude climbers. The term has broad application, and its use can range from describing a brief section of lateral movement on a pitch of a climbing route, to large multi-pitch climbing routes that almost entirely consist of lateral movement such Pages in category "Pakistani mountain climbers" The following 23 pages are in this category, out of 23 total. com Jul 26, 2022 · Marc-André Leclerc (October 10, 1992 – March 5, 2018) was a Canadian climber known primarily for his solo alpinism. Subcategories This category has the following 2 subcategories, out of 2 total. Retouched by TimofKingsland. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpine environment. . It’s perhaps best known as the route Alex Honnold climbed in the film Free Solo. It remains today a prime climbing location. John Gill, performing a dynamic move at Pennyrile Forest, KY in the mid-1960s. [14] In free solo climbing, climbers rely only on themselves to ascend the rock and use no protective gear; they use no ropes, harnesses or anything In alpine climbing the term solo climbing – as distinct from free solo climbing Alex Honnold's famous 2017 free solo of the big wall route, Freerider (5. Alex Honnold (born August 17, 1985) is an American rock climber best known for his free solo ascents of big walls. Climbing equipment The following is a list of notable brands and manufacturers of climbing and mountaineering equipment (including for all forms of rock climbing and of ice climbing ), sorted by continent and by country. Anker is famous for a number of first ascents and expeditions, beginning in the late 1980s. Christian Kaufmann (alpine guide) Hans Kaufmann (alpine After retiring from bouldering and taking time off in 2009 to allow her back to recover, Zangerl began to focus on easier sport climbing routes. The list does not include the first ascent of new routes to previously climbed mountain summits. 13a, the first-ever big wall free solo ascent at that grade), [3] a climb described in The New York 0–9. August 15: 3rd ascent. Developed by British and Italian climbers in the early 1960s, the windswept towers have been a continuous venue for big wall climbing with the world's leading big wall climbers still trying to fully free the famous 1991 partially-aided route by Wolfgang Gullich and Kurt Albert, Riders on the Storm (VI, 5. 14d) when the highest achieved female sport climbing grade was just two notches higher at 9b (5. Bich, and Salomon Meynet guiding Florence Crauford Grove. [1] [2] [3] He was noted for many climbing achievements, including a solo climb of a new alpine climbing route on the south-west pillar of the Aiguille du Dru in August 1955, the first ascent of Gasherbrum IV in 1958, and, in 1965, the This category is for books (fiction and non-fiction) whose primary topic is climbing or mountaineering. Photographer unidentified. Feb 16, 2024 · Below is a list of such determined mountain climbers and their most outstanding facts attached to their names within and beyond landscape exploration. Second ascent from Breuil by J. The Diamond on Longs Peak is the most famous alpine rock climbing area in Colorado. Alison Hargreaves and Jeff Lowe climbing Kangtega, 1 May 1986. First female unaided ascent of Mount Everest, completing the first solo ascents of the six alpine north faces in a single summer season North face of the Eiger Alison Jane Hargreaves (17 February 1962 – 13 August 1995) was a British mountaineer . F, PD, AD, D, TD, and ED) of the Henry Bradford Washburn Jr. Jeff Lowe (September 13, 1950 - August 24, 2018) [1] was an American alpinist from Ogden, Utah who was known for his visionary climbs and first ascents established in the US and Canadian Rockies, Alps and Himalayas. He was the leader of the first team to climb El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, in 1958. [1] At the age of 16, he became a member of the Club Alpin Français (French Alpine Club), where he was introduced to high altitude mountaineering. See full list on climbing. David Lama (Nepali: डेभिड लामा; 4 August 1990 – 16 April 2019) was an Austrian rock climber and alpinist. The first climber to have ascended all six north faces was Gaston Rébuffat, a French alpinist and mountain guide, who chronicled his feat in his 1954 work, Etoiles et Tempêtes (Starlight and Storm). [2] By 1976, aged 16, she was spending her summer in the Verdon Gorge, with climbing-partner, Pierre Richard. Climbing in an expedition style is preferred if the summit is very high or distant from civilization. Kim Chang-ho (Korean: 김창호; 15 September 1969 – 11 October 2018), was a South Korean mountaineer, and at the time of his death in 2018, was considered to be Korea's most prolific alpine and Himalayan climber, noted for his bold and lightweight alpine-style ascents. Feb 14, 2023 · Climbing is a vast and diverse sport, with disciplines ranging from bouldering to trad to sport to alpine to deep water soloing. [ 42 ] He is the subject of the book Kukuczka: Opowieść o najsłynniejszym polskim himalaiście (Kukuczka: Story of the Poland's Greatest Climber) published in 2016 as well as documentary films Kukuczka by Jerzy Porębski and Jurek by Paweł Wysoczański, in 2011 and The alpine style contrasts with "expedition style". The French Alpine Club formed in 1874. 9 C2; 3,500ft), is one of the most famous routes in Yosemite Valley. Alan Hinkes OBE (born 26 April 1954) is an English Himalayan high-altitude mountaineer from Northallerton in North Yorkshire. Warren Harding (June 18, 1924 – February 27, 2002) was one of the most accomplished and influential American big wall climbers and aid climbers of the 1950s to 1970s. It is the biggest and most developed bouldering area in the world, [ citation needed ] and is where the Fontainebleau grading system originated. Carrel, J. In no particular order, let’s get to it! #1: Alex Honnold Known For: Free Solo. [3] While single pitch sport climbing never became a core focus for Zangerl, by 2018 she was climbing at the grade of 9a (5. Feb 13, 2025 · Famous for finding George Mallory’s body on Mount Everest in 1999, Anker has achieved several alpine firsts, including Meru, Vinson Massif, Ulvettana and El Capitan and has climbed summits from Vernon "Vern" Tejas is an American mountain climber and mountain guide. Help; Learn to edit; Community portal; Recent changes; Upload file; Special pages French alpine climbers practiced bouldering there since the 19th century. [17] Allen was noted as a careful and safe climber. The skills gained on waterfalls also gave rise to a whole new generation of alpine climbs. [3] Location of all the 14 eight-thousanders. [1] It is considered a classic piece of climbing literature, known to many climbers as simply "The Book", [2] and has served as an inspiration for more recent climbing books, such as Mark Kroese's Fifty Favorite Climbs. (June 7, 1910 – January 10, 2007) was an American explorer, mountaineer, photographer, and cartographer. His name was also included on the Monument of Alpine Climbers in Katowice. 13/7c+, A3). Pages in category "Swiss mountain climbers" The following 63 pages are in this category, out of 63 total. In August 2011, she became the second woman to climb the fourteen eight-thousanders and the first woman to do so without using supplemental oxygen or high-altitude porters. Marc-André Leclerc (October 10, 1992 – March 5, 2018) was a Canadian rock climber, ice and mixed climber, and alpinist. (1891-1966)--an author of mountain climbing and president of the American Alpine Club from 1835-57—completing climbs of the Hinter Fierscherhorn, Gross Fierscherhorn, Jungfrau, and Mönch in one day, and the Wetterhorn, Nittelhorn, and Rosenhorn on another day. She is the first Albanian woman to climb Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world. 15b). Sir Edmund Hillary was a New Zealand mountaineer, explorer, and philanthropist. On 9 June, the group had been trapped for four days at 19,200 feet (5,900 m). He established the Boston Museum of Science, served as its director from 1939–1980, and from 1985 until his death served as its Honorary Director (a lifetime appointment). The first was the English Alpine Club (founded in the winter of 1857–1858), followed in 1862 by the Austrian Alpine Club, the Italian and Swiss Alpine Club in 1863 and the German Alpine Club in 1869. Hermann Alexander Berlepsch (1861), The Alps; or, Sketches of life and nature in the mountains (English translated from German by Leslie Stephen). 1934 Nanga Parbat climbing disaster; 1936 Eiger climbing disaster; 1970 Mount Everest disaster; 1971 Cairngorm Plateau disaster; 1974 French Mount Everest expedition In June 1995, Lowe helped the National Park Service rescue several Spanish climbers on 20,320-foot (6,190 m) Denali in Alaska. This is a list of climbers and mountaineers who are notable for their activities in mountaineering (including alpine climbing), rock climbing (including aid climbing, free climbing, bouldering, speed climbing and competition climbing) or in ice climbing (including mixed climbing). Whittaker (born February 10, 1929), also known as Jim Whittaker, is an American climber and mountain guide. The Alpinist is a 2021 American documentary film directed by Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen about Marc-André Leclerc, a free-spirited and little-known 23-year-old Canadian rock climber, ice climber, and alpinist. With this style, climbers will carry large amounts of equipment and provisions up and down the mountain, slowly making upward progress. العربية; Asturianu; Български; Boarisch; Čeština; Deutsch; Español; Esperanto; Euskara; فارسی; Français; Frysk; 한국어; Հայերեն Kenton Edward Cool (born 30 July 1973, / k uː l /) is an English climber and mountain guide. [ 1 ] Walter Bonatti (Italian pronunciation: [ˈvalter boˈnatti]; 22 June 1930 – 13 September 2011) was an Italian mountaineer, alpinist, explorer and journalist. In 2024, the Alpine Club instituted the Rick Allen Skills Award in his honor. He is the current world record holder in the amount of time taken to summit all of the Seven Summits consecutively, having also previously held the same record. Alpine climbing (German: Alpinklettern) is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e. Ueli Steck (Alemannic German: [ˈuεli ʃtɛk]; 4 October 1976 – 30 April 2017) was a Swiss rock climber and alpinist. Pages in category "Australian mountain climbers" The following 34 pages are in this category, out of 34 total. With teammates Jim Whittaker, Lute Jerstad, Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein, he was a member of the American Mount Everest Expedition led by Norman Dyhrenfurth, the first American team to summit Mount Everest on May 22, 1963. Until that point, all fourteen 8000-meter peaks had been summitted using the expedition style , though Hermann Buhl had earlier advocated "West Alpine Style" (similar to "capsule" style, with a smaller group relying on minimal [11] [15] At the time of his death, he was climbing to raise funds for the charity Partners UK. He is the first British mountaineer to claim all 14 Himalayan eight-thousanders (mountains above 8,000 m (26,247 ft) in height), a feat he completed on 30 May 2005. Qudrat Ali; Flutura Ibrahimi better known as Uta Ibrahimi (born 27 November 1983, Gjilan) is an Albanian alpinist from Kosovo. He was the first to climb Annapurna solo via its South Face (though this is disputed by some [1]), and set speed records on the North Face trilogy in the Alps. Among numerous other alpine solos, Leclerc made the first winter solos of Patagonia’s Torre Egger (8,809 feet) and the Emperor Face of Mount Robson (12,972 feet) in Canada. All these unique disciplines and styles of climbing, however, can trace their roots to a single origin point: mountaineering. [1] The first climber to ascend all six north faces in a single year was the Austrian Leo Schlömmer, from the summer of 1961 to the summer of 1962. Royal Robbins resting on his aiders during the 3rd pitch of the FA of the Salathé Wall (VI 5. Aid climbing traces its origins to the start of all climbing, with ladders used on historic ascents such as the 1492 ascent of Mont Aiguille, the 1786 ascent of Mont Blanc, or the 1893 ascent of Devils Tower, and with drilled bolts on historic ascents such as the 1875 first ascent of Half Dome. He started climbing mountains at the age of 11 with the first one being Makra Peak, followed by Musa ka Musalla and Chembra Peak at age 12, Mingli Sar in Shimshal at age 13 and Khurdopin Pass at age 15 and Khosar Gang in alpine style at 18 years of age. The UIAA also incorporated proposals made in 1943 by Lucien Devies and the Groupe de Haute Montagne on a broader "Scale of Global Assessment" for alpine climbing (the French Alpine System), and created the "UIAA Scale of Overall Difficulty" by assigning Roman numerals I–VI to the six adjectival levels (e. Dec 6, 2024 · Free Rider, a Huber-brothers variation to the Salathé Wall (VI 5. [2] His ascents of Everest include leading Sir Ranulph Fiennes' 2008 and 2009 Expeditions. elwbzoh mnnfz yhetgql arx zhci llptq adsdsaej dwjhwb zzhoq siozi uieey ijbxqybl kwzi jxtmib qsrjry