Wi5 ice climbing reddit Jun 23, 2023 · I climbed in the vicinity of 100 pitches of ice, mixed and dry this winter across Northern Wyoming, Utah and Montana. I would just get the Quarks. WI 5: Long and strenuous, with a ropelength of 85º-90º ice offering few good rests; or a shorter pitch of thin or bad ice with reasonable protection that’s difficult to place. But, I wouldn’t want to carry any ice tools for ski touring because they’re heavy - what do you want to do with a single ice tool while touring? 211 votes, 19 comments. May 27, 2025 · Ice is an ephemeral medium, so ice climbing grades can vary widely from the grades given for the climb & the actual climbing experience. I am leaving on a six week expedition to the Alaska range in order to climb alpine ice three weeks from now. com. After my first couple seasons I upgraded from the Black Diamond Vipers to the Black Diamond Fuel and don't regret it. much easier to just change picks than trying to keep the ice-picks sharp while also using them on rock (they will also last way longer if you are not filling them constantly). Ice climbing is very different compared to rock climbing in that there is way less variation in the movement patterns for basically all ice up to WI5. Ice climbing can take on a broad range of climbing routes. Dec 2, 2010 · WI 4: Multiple pitches of continuous 80º ice, or a single pitch containing fairly long sections of 90º ice broken up by occasional rests. Scan this QR code to download the app now Hydrophobia is a 150m WI5 located in the Waiparous land use area/North Ghost. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Mixed climbing is a rather new grading system used to define the difficulty of climbing rock, and possibly some ice, using ice tools and crampons. 10 Must Climb New England Ice Routes. . Several pitches of ice, visible from the highway, are a treat for any ice climbers in the area # Nov 7, 2007 · 11/07/07 - A Swiss duo that had already climbed one major new route in the Canadian Rockies has added another big new route, along with several impressive repeats. Posted by u/RPBot - 1 vote and 1 comment 53 votes, 21 comments. It's definitely more technical than ice climbing and probably always will be. Climbing steeper ice is far easier with a more aggresive tool. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Ice Climbing Team and has climbed up to WI5 and M12- around the Colorado Rockies. By December Jun 23, 2023 · I climbed in the vicinity of 100 pitches of ice, mixed and dry this winter across Northern Wyoming, Utah and Montana. Generally, ice climbs are graded based on the typical difficulty of the route when it is in condition. Tucked into the deep recedes of Teton Canyon, "the pillar" provides a consistent 35M of vertical or overhanging climbing ranging anywhere from WI5- to WI6R. Feb 22, 2025 · The most difficult pitch is WI5, but most are between WI3 and WI4. Mack-Tyson Pillar, is perhaps the gem of steep waterfall ice in the Teton Range. For fans of ice climbing. Our Complete Guide to Ice Climbing Grades describes each level of difficulty. Posted by u/RPBot - 1 vote and 1 comment 12K subscribers in the iceclimbing community. My first season I would TR solo at the local crag a few days a week. Tim Banfield. I found a great deal on Petzl Paso Guide 7. a. Dec 20, 2022 · Pat Lindsay ice climbing Arian P'tit Gremlin, WI5 300m, a Guy Lacelle First Ascent in Protection Valley, Alberta, Canada Photo: Tim Banfield Arian P’tit Gremlin [ V WI 5–6; 300 meters ] Tucked away from the watchful eyes of conditions-obsessed ice climbers is Protection Valley, between Banff and Lake Louise. You may be forgiven for having a quiet prayer as your ice screws go through the ice into the pockets of air behind the scales. The home of Climbing on reddit. I recommend a visit to lake Willoughby in Vermont. The Cilley/Barber WI4, South Basin, Maine Dracula WI4, Frankenstein, New Hampshire Standard Route WI3, Frankenstein, New Hampshire Positive Thinking WI5, Adirondacks, New York Black Dike WI5, Cannon Cliff, New Hampshire Way In The Wilderness WI5, Painted Walls, New Hampshire 12K subscribers in the iceclimbing community. com Making these videos helps me review my form and catch mistakes in my ice climbing - perhaps they may be insightful for others too? Full climb with commentary 191 votes, 23 comments. Related Topics Climbing Sports comment sorted 12K subscribers in the iceclimbing community. By Thanksgiving, the relentless seeps that nurture the canyon’s old-growth forests coalesce around vertical blue drippings that metamorphose into connected pillars seemingly overnight. That said, I started comfortably leading WI5 in my second/third-ish season. I rock climbing, ice climb, alpine climbing, mountaineer, and i pretty fucking good at all of them. 1. The more agressive shape and the set back handle not only protects your knuckles but also means you are hanging on the handle in a much more natural angle which Jan 28, 2025 · Corey is a freelance writer and editor based in Boulder, CO. She is a former member of the U. Brandon Pullan cleaning high on The Jimmy Skid Rig. One can imagine that if Cartier, who was seeking minerals and trade goods, had been an ice climber and arrived in winter, he would have donned crampons and put ashore immediately. “Ice protection was often good,” he said, “but sometimes it was hard to protect and to build a belay. The Cilley/Barber WI4, South Basin, Maine Dracula WI4, Frankenstein, New Hampshire Standard Route WI3, Frankenstein, New Hampshire Positive Thinking WI5, Adirondacks, New York Black Dike WI5, Cannon Cliff, New Hampshire Way In The Wilderness WI5, Painted Walls, New Hampshire 90 votes, 22 comments. "Just climbing" doesn't work my or anyone else's legs Early season in the rockies the Storm Creek headwall came in super thick. And yes we are scared of falling. In sport climbing you constantly push yourself to your physical limit, fall again and again, and finally send your project. View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. • WI5 / AI5 – This is where ice climbing gets pumpy. Twynam, with a group of 6. For a few of the guys it's training for the summer mountaineering season in the New Zealand Alps. What level do you rockclimb at? If you are climbing >7a level and focus on the ice climbing technique you should be able to cleanly toprope WI5 within your first couple of days (leading is Posted by u/Guilty_Light - 1,298 votes and 70 comments 1. Mountainhardwear. 48 votes, 12 comments. My original goal for the season was to become comfortable on WI4 and begin leading WI5, and by the end of the year I had a handful of WI5 on-sights and traditional mixed leads up to M6. At this grade the ice may be complex, forming large ‘cauliflowers’ or ‘scales’, and care may be required when climbing and placing ice screws. Ice climbing is very different from sport climbing. 79K subscribers in the alpinism community. For some context, I was putting in about 60-100 days of ice climbing every year and winter in the Canadian Rockies lasts from November until April. We decided to go check i Feb 20, 2025 · Superbck is a famous route located in Field British Columbia. 6K subscribers in the iceclimbing community. However, in ice climbing, falling on lead can mean broken ankles, knees, or worse. See full list on ascentionism. Feb 13, 2023 · The Eagle Scout Pillar, a. Jan 24, 2011 · Québec's Gaspé Peninsula - First "discovered" in 1534 by French explorer Jacques Cartier, the Gaspé Peninsula and its rugged coastline and sleepy fishing villages offer a Northeastern ice mecca with unusual accents. Waterfall ice climber here. The last gentleman and the promenade are multi pitch WI5/5+ classics with fairly short approaches and no real avy danger. Fine i will spray if i have to, i climb 5. 7mm rope and am currently deciding between 60m and 70m versions. Photo by Will Meinen / Blog. It's the key to moving up in steep ice climbing, where you will be holding a deep lock off with your lower hand while you repeatedly swing your other ice tool high overhead trying to a get a good stick (that can be a lot of swings when it's -20f like my trip to Canmore was). Jan 3, 2012 · The most reliable ice in America - As early as Halloween, smoky white smears and yellow stains drape across Hyalite Canyon’s tiered bands of cobbles and welded ash like laundry hung out to dry. In addition pick up a pair of the pur'ice picks for the iceclimbing and then use the standard ice picks for alpinism and mixed climbing. With beautiful views of Abraham Lake and superb climbing and position it’s not wonder it Mar 4, 2025 · Saved Content. I started with mountaineering on steep slopes, then ice climbing on crevasses (ice waterfalls don't form where I live but glaciers are pretty close and wide open in summer) and some day I realize that the only piece of equipment I lacked for rock was shoes, so I bought the cheapest pair and started rock climbing, and I can tell that in Apr 5, 2016 · To get to this massive snow ledge on the 380-foot Flux Capacitor (WI5+), one must lead 40 meters of thin WI5 ice, then from the ledge back up to the rim it’s about 70 meters. ” Charlie Porter is credited for naming the route while on the first ascent. Oct 25, 2021 · Dubouloz wasn’t sure exactly how many pitches they climbed in total but estimated there were at least ten pitches of stout WI5+. 12 trad, V9+ bouldering, WI5 ice, and have summited more alpine mountaineering mixed, snow, snice, snoce shitshows than i can count. Also just for the easier to get replacement picks. Watching ice float down the St. Polar Circus has 700 metres of elevation gain with 500 metres being waterfall ice. Lawrence River while belaying, or seeing the occasional blue whale breach while swinging your tools, it can be hard to believe that North America—in this case, Quebec—has such amazing ice, especially with just a five-minute approach. 2 21cm screws, one for v-threads and one for general purpose, 4 16s, 4 13s, and 1 10cm for good luck. We're planning to walk in from Guthega and camp for three nights on Mt. Though not yet set in stone, M grades (“M” given to define a mixed route) are often compared or defined by the difficulty of a similar rock route using the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). Giant icicles (also known as ice Heading out to Blue Lake in Kosciuszko National Park, Australia's ice climbing crag 1. 53 votes, 21 comments. When there wasn’t enough ice, we had to look for good cracks in the rock, but the rock was really bad. And willoughby itself is a magical place with about a mile of cliff bejeweled in steep ice climbs. She is a volunteer climbing instructor at The Ice Coop, Colorado’s only dedicated ice-climbing gym, where she does much of her training. S. Primary use would be long multi pitch climbing (both sport and trad) in summer and easier mixed/ice climbing in winter (think up to WI5+). This climb is a true classic and a must do for any ice climber if given the opp Oct 16, 2019 · Etienne Rancourt topping out Une Fière Chandelle (WI5+; 150 feet), Gaspésie, Quebec. ICE: The Peach WI5 M8. Jan 6, 2025 · Kitty Hawk is a WI5 located on Mt Elliot in the David Thompson area. Ice climbing routes can also take the form of high alpine snow-covered couloirs that are permanently frozen year-round. Ice and mixed go well together and I’d recommend buying Quarks (I’m a broken record on that) in addition to your nomics. This pitch starts off vertical on a thin curtain that’s barely touching (think: small dagger), and then super-gentle climbing leads to easier terrain above. k. 13 sport, 5. I average 500 pitches per year, with 60% of that mileage being alpine rock/wall climbing/trad cragging, and the rest being either technical waterice climbing or alpine ice climbing in the Cascades. Usually Buddah Nature is climbed with a mixed pitch on P1. Ice climbing can be sketchy enough as it is and i wouldnt want to give away any edge especcially when you try to progress to a higher grade (-> you will meet your limit. A common type of ice route is a frozen waterfall, particularly one that cascades down a mountain face or a down-mountain gully. 9. My typical rack for ice climbing includes 10-12 screws. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. ) The tool-question really depends on if you are planing to use your ice skills on more alpine routes aka classical northface aka snow romp with odd pitch. Guidebook author, Joe Josephson, said, “It is the showpiece of the Canadian Rockies and a must for all climbers. 12K subscribers in the iceclimbing community. Feb 23, 2009 · Will Gadd working on the crux pitch of The Jimmy Skid Rig (300m, WI5 M12) in Alberta. hgqpzy zmb gephwe gctzhg ofwv afvje vtkcj lnonxak dvwqkw crtr