Tube style belay Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device review Lightweight belay device for climbers Best tube-style belay devices for sport climbing Durable aluminum belay device for trad climbing High-friction belay devices for safety ATC-XP specifications and features Climbing gear for beginners and experienced climbers Belay devices for ropes 7. Dec 16, 2022 · Tube-style devices have continued to improve on the earlier versions from the 1990s. It is an evolution of the Sticht plate's concept by creating more surface area to dissipate heat and the ability to create sharper angles which creates a stronger degree of friction which has greater stopping power. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. It functions similar to tube-style belay devices but offers superior bite when the leader falls or hangs for a while on the rope. How they work: Tube-style devices like the Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Reverso are very similar to the original belay device which was simply a metal plate with two holes in it. Sep 14, 2020 · A tube-style device is a simple device that relies on friction and always requires one hand to be on the rope. As a belayer, your partner trusts you to catch them when they fall and get them back to the ground safely once they’ve finished a route. The device, plus the belayer's quick "braking hand" (which locks off the free end of the rope), helps keep tension on the rope and helps protect the climber at the other end. The belayer must move the rope to the right position to “brake” and stop the rope from sliding though. Please read all manufacturer’s directions and information before using any device. These devices are widely known and are suitable for any climbing need. A preferred multi-pitch tube style belay devices also includes a guide mode feature which is an attachment point so they can be used to belay from above at the anchor. Lowering/Rappelling Alright, so check it out—this thing called a belay device is like your sidekick in climbing. ) So, I started asking questions. Style: Tube Apr 27, 2021 · Reviews of the 3 Other Belay Devices We Tested Edelrid Mega Jul. An example of a tube-style device. I would advocate for learning on the Jul2 - if you can lead belay using a Jul2, you should be able to lead belay using any tubular style device, should the need ever arise. . Once you get the hang of it, lead belay is so much easier with a Grigri ( you still have to pay attention. We found the Dec 5, 2024 · Some other devices allow more rope to slip through before catching, similar to what happens on a regular tube style belay device. Tube-style devices are “passive” braking devices that rely on the use of a brake hand on the rope, below the device, to arrest Dec 22, 2022 · The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device. Many companies and manufacturers have created their own version of the tube-style device, but among the most popular are the Black Diamond ATC Guide, the Petzl Jul 11, 2012 · Fusion Climb Neo Sat Aluminum Tube Belay Device Gold - The Neo-Sat Belay Device is a modified "tube" style belay device. Let’s quickly look at the key specs, variations, and pros and cons of climbing’s most classic tube-style belay device. As such, choosing the right belay device is A Tubular Belay device. The Mega Jul is a clever modified tube-style design, which allows the belay carabiner to slide into a slot when catching a fall. Not much has changed since its original design in the 1990s. Apr 24, 2024 · Tube-style Belay Devices (Not brake assist!): Again, these are tube shaped, but these devices rely on friction of the rope against the side of the device. Although some people are not happy about this, there are some safety concerns that can be hard… Dec 13, 2023 · When I was learning how to use the GriGri, my main hang up was that it seemed easier to short-rope a lead climber. These are sometimes called “passive assisted braking devices” or “semi-automatic tube-style devices,” and are somewhat less common. One brake assist for indoors and outdoor single pitch climbing. May 4, 2012 · The figure 8, one of the original rappel and belay devices, is rarely used today because tube-style and assisted braking devices are more efficient and put fewer twists in the rope. Feb 22, 2020 · Tube style devices require a great deal of hand strength to hold the weight of the climber, which can be fatiguing. The ATC’s lightweight and minimalist design relies on two slots for belaying or rappelling with two The Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay Device is a classic tube-style belay device with grooved steel inserts to create more friction and reduced strain while also increasing durability by minimizing overheating. Dec 22, 2023 · Then, just a few decades later, Black Diamond came out with the first tube-style Air Traffic Controller device, or ATC for short. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. Aug 24, 2018 · The Smart 2. Aug 26, 2021 · It is a tube style belay device without any special teeth for functionality to assist in braking. Jun 9, 2023 · Tube-style devices belay devices are flexible and can be used for gym climbing, sport climbing, and multipitch trad climbing. This thing feels, feeds and works pretty much like any tube style belay device out there with the addition of what Black Diamond calls "enhanced braking. The lack of rope slip didn't feel too significant while falling or while catching a fall because rope stretch and attentive belaying provide a soft enough catch. In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. Dec 1, 2023 · Petzl GriGri – #1 Most Owned Mechanical Device. This device is so, so close to unifying the advantages of the ATC-Guide and the GriGri 2. While there are subtle differences in weight and design they all function relatively the Apr 13, 2025 · Tube style belay devices are one of the most common styles for belay devices in rock climbing today. 7 to 11mm Comparison of Black Diamond belay May 13, 2025 · Type of Belay Device: Active assisted breaking; Lead Belay Mode?: No; Guarantee: 3 years . For the purpose of this article, the only two categories of belay devices that will be discussed are tube-style devices and assisted braking devices (ABDs). We talked at length in our post on the most owned and wanted tube style belay devices about how Black Diamond has cemented the word ATC into the climbing zeitgeist to mean any tube style belay device, and it’s not uncommon to hear climbers referring to mechanical belay devices as a GriGri. The specific design allows the rope to glide smoothly through the device and reduces wear. It was due to our insurance policy, the insurance company dictated that we had to provide all safety equipment besides harnesses, and specified tube-style belay devices. Jun 28, 2018 · Used in conjunction with a climbing rope, common dynamic belays use tube-style devices like the Petzl Verso and Omega Pacific SBG II. Picture it as the ultimate rope brake; it adds some sweet friction to that climbing rope. May 29, 2018 · It gave up nothing to a tube-style belay device; maintaining the climber’s location required the same control of the brake strand. Most have two tubes or slots so that they can be used to belay with two ropes or rappel on a doubled rope. Feb 15, 2024 · Any rock climber climbing a multi-pitch route will likely want to utilize guide mode. Almost every climber everywhere has owned and used a classic “tube-style” belay device. Most tube style devices also have teeth for added grip on the rope. There are more options in this category then ever before. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. The two slots on the device allow you to belay and rappel using one or two lines. Featuring V-shaped slots on the brake side of the device and ARC technology, the VERSO provides increased control on a wide variety of rope diameters. That just seems ass-backwards to me. I still have my plate as shown in fig. I've worked at a few gyms in that area that fit that description. These devices take more effort to catch a fall and/or hold a climber in place – as all the energy needs to come from the belayer holding the rope tight against the device. " The ridiculously simple engineering has enabled BD to create an assisted braking device at a fraction of the price and weight of the "mouse trap" builders. The climbing rope is threaded into one or both of the tubes of the belay device. It’s as standard as needing a pair of climbing shoes and a chalk bag. Feb 22, 2020 · Guide plates are very similar to the tubular belay device with one minor alteration - there are two attachment points (one large, one small). But compared to devices like the GriGri, which locks the rope Feb 3, 2023 · Are aTCs moving out and ABDs the new norm? Many climbing gyms have banned devices that do not have assisted braking. Of course, you'll also need a tube-style device that can fit two strands while rappelling. I had to push rope into the NEOX from the brake side to execute a quick feed Jul 16, 2014 · *Editor’s Note: This setup is appropriate for standard auto-blocking tube-style belay devices, but there are several unique models on the market that require their own rigging method. A running belay is a variant of the dynamic belay in which the top anchor point is attached to a horizontal cable using a trolley. And one tube style with guide mode device for outdoor multi-pitch climbing. One thing I have heard is people being fine using a Grigri for top rope belay, but then want to use a tube for lead belay. Other belay devices can be generally divided into two large groups – figure 8 rappel devices and tube style devices. They also specified that top-rope belayers use ground anchors. The Black Diamond ATC is a standard tube-style device. The greatest advantage to these advanced tubular devices is that they can be used on multi-pitch climbs to bring up your second on a “direct belay,” where you attach the device itself to your anchor instead of yourself, and therefore can be almost Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. Tube-style belay devices, also known as manual or tubular belay devices, consist of one or two tubes or elongated holes. To operate one, the rope is folded and inserted in the device, with a locking carabiner securing it to either the belayer or to the anchor. What this addition achieves is threefold: Apr 28, 2025 · Load and Lock: Putting a Climber on Belay. To Feb 21, 2020 · Overall the Petzl Verso fulfills its role as a basic tube-style belay device. Mar 12, 2025 · At the gym, some older, fatter, fuzzy ropes required the tube-style belay device method to overcome the added friction. , ATC or Reverso), thread a bight of the rope through either slot in the device. g. The ATC or tube-style belay device, is an all-time favorite (and old-school) belay device that uses only friction in order to stop a climber from falling. Even more, it’s exceptionally straightforward…it’s really hard to set it up wrong, and while belaying it does exactly what you ask it to without snagging, extra levers, etc. 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi Jun 12, 2024 · In the world of climbing, the safety of the climber hangs, quite literally, on the efficiency and reliability of their belay device. The Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, or ATC for short, is Black Diamond’s flagship belay device. Jul 11, 2024 · Harkening back to the time-tested tube-style belay devices of old, the ATC-XP is a cheap and simple but entirely functional device for new and experienced climbers alike. Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above. It generally performs as well as other similar belay devices, with similar amounts of bite when catching lead falls and similar amounts of friction when pulling slack through the device when belaying a follower. AND… there is actually an older style of belay device that is still available that’s worth knowing about. Jul 6, 2023 · Passive Assisted Braking Devices exaggerate the “grabbing” quality of any aperture or tube style belay device. belay. The ATC Pilot does this by simply pinching the rope between your belay ‘biner and the device when the rope is weighted, whereas some other devices, like the Petzl GRIGRI , use camming Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. It’s very light, and it can be used for rappelling as well. But in many other ways it seemed safer than the standard ATC I learned to climb with. A belay device is an essential piece of climbing equipment that allows a belayer to control the rope, therefore ensuring the climber's protection against fall. This includes most ATC devices and tube-style belay devices in the market. Oct 23, 2023 · Types of Belay Devices. If you’ve spent your entire climbing career until this point only using a tube-style belay device, like the Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Reverso, the first thing you’ll notice is that the GriGri is large – really large. Nov 6, 2022 · The ATC by Black Diamond is a contemporary iteration of older tube-style belay devices. With it, you can belay or rappel making it suitable for climbing and canyoneering. ) Sep 20, 2021 · There is nothing quite like the bond formed between climber and belayer. Dec 22, 2022 · The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device. The result is a comprehensive comparison-t Jan 4, 2024 · Often a climber may find themselves with two devices. From the Manufacturer Mar 21, 2024 · Here are some popular examples of tube-style brake assist belay devices: Fortunately, there isn’t a wrong or right way to go when choosing a tube versus mechanical belay device. A. In recent years, however, climbing brands have invented more advanced and specified belay rappel devices. An ATC needs to be clipped into the harness with a locking carabiner, the rope then runs through the bottom of the device, around the carabiner, and then back out Jan 3, 2024 · The ATC climbing device, which stands for Air Traffic Control, is a tube-style belay device, usually with two holes and a plastic-wrapped loop of braided wire connected to the underside. Mar 19, 2024 · Best Tube Belay Device. Weighing almost nothing and providing a better belay experience for the belayer and a safer climbing experience for the climbers, the Black Diamond ATC rapidly became the preference amongst climbers. For those who climb intermittently, it will likely last many years. device acts as a brake on the climbing rope by applying friction to it. To Oct 23, 2023 · Types of Belay Devices. Apr 8, 2022 · The lightest in the Petzl range! VERSO is an easy-to-use, tube-style belay device. Tube-style devices are “passive” braking devices that rely on the use of a brake hand on the rope, below the device, to arrest The DMM Pivot is a tube-style belay device with auto-blocking capabilities. (Black Diamond’s ATC—or “Air Traffic Controller”—is their model of the classic tube-style belay device. Unfortunately, there is no simple way to try out all the devices, unless you make friends with climbers who own some devices you can try. The Process Oct 8, 2018 · Petzl Belay Devices: VERSO The Petzl VERSO is an ultra-light and affordable tube-style belay device. May 19, 2022 · In the high world of multi-pitch or alpine climbing where you are often several rope lengths above the ground, tube devices are also well suited. The “grabbing” effect is so severe, it effectively brakes the rope, providing the belayer with a backup. Nov 17, 2023 · There are quite a few benefits to the ATC belay device and other tube-style belay devices, and for much of climbing history, these were the primary devices used for belaying, lowering, or rappelling. However, figure 8s do provide smooth, easily controlled rappels, and they are preferred by some rescue personnel. In the late 1980s, Petzl assembled a team of expert climbers and started fiddling around with belay Dec 5, 2024 · A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device that offers all of the functionality of both tube devices and active assisted braking devices in one compact unit. First Impressions. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. The most popular modern tube-style device is the Black Diamond ATC (in its various forms), which will make up half our test. - The ribbed grooves offer increased friction and lock off for belaying and rappelling. 0 is Mammut’s assisted belay device. We use these ATC devices because they make belaying easier by creating friction. Some climbing gyms no longer allow Aug 6, 2021 · Named after its designer Fritz Sticht, the device was a precursor of the tube-style belay devices we still use today. Like other tube-style devices on this list it gives us auto-block mode when we clip to an anchor and belay from above. Aug 17, 2014 · The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. With a tube-style belay device (e. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. 8oz The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. (Some devices have grooves on one side that make braking easier, so ensure the brake strand is coming out on that side. In the 1970s, the first patented belay device was the These are sometimes called “passive assisted braking devices” or “semi-automatic tube-style devices,” and are somewhat less common. Below is the most common style of tube belay device has the features for guide mode. edit: The variants with a spring to hold the plate away from the carabiner came later (also from Salewa) but weren't patented. Tube-Style Belay Devices. I am referring to the hand movements. Winning Features 2. While all functions work well, the slider is a bit confusing to learn and isn't intuitive, making this device less suitable for handing to a partner without teaching them to use it first. While correct belay technique is essential, having the best belay device for your needs definitely helps. Now, more climbers are transitioning to assisted-braking devices. Even if you primarily rely on an assisted braking device like the Grigri above when belaying, it's important to have a backup—and ideally one that can be used for double Sep 21, 2023 · For many decades, manual tube-style devices were the most popular type of belay device. This is one reason for the popularity of the active assisted devices, or passive assisted devices that use much the same motion to belay, but remove much of the effort of holding a hanging climber in place. Also called a "tube", this type of device generally has a tubular or rectangular shape. Situated at the complete opposite of the Petzl GriGri, an ATC won’t assist you in braking a fall so you must be really careful when using it. Whether you are a gym climber, trad climber, sport climber, alpine climber or Jan 15, 2018 · As with other assisted braking belay devices, the ATC Pilot is intended to make catching and holding falls easier than with a standard tube-style device. Jul 29, 2019 · Standard Tube-Style Belay Devices. Although the Jun 1, 2025 · The Sticht belay plate was the original belay plate and there was nothing of the kind before. These designs are great for new or experienced climbers that appreciate simplicity and a good deal. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. 2 (single hole) but cannot find it right now. Each of these two belay devices have its own principle on which they operate, and the designs of a many of other belay devices are usually variations on theme set by them. The climbers will often need to Oct 1, 2021 · What Are Manual / Tube Style / Tubular Belay Devices? Any belay device that uses one or two tubes or elongated holes is a tube style or tubular device. Dec 5, 2024 · The Giga Jul takes a standard autoblocking tube-style belay device and adds a slider that provides an assisted brake function. Since many multi-pitch climbers rappel the route, they expect to use a tube belay device that accepts 2 ropes (vs a GriGri style device which cannot perform a standard rappel). Black Diamond ATC Guide Jun 16, 2023 · Related Searches. However, modern features have improved this tried and true belay device. I also think it’s more intuitive to understand the mechanics involved in belaying with a tube style device (although since you’re already familiar with TR lead belaying Dec 5, 2024 · As such, this is the device we recommend for experienced climbers who want one belay device or all kinds of climbing. The general design is the same. - A slightly larger opening allows easier setup when you "bite" the rope and smoother belay.
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