Three finger drag climbing reddit. Well I know you are strong in what you train.

Three finger drag climbing reddit I noticed on the wall i would never half crimp which made certain problems super difficult. Other people, including me, often use "open hand" to include open half crimp (or whatever it goes by nowadays) which is as open a hand position as you can get with all 4 fingers on. It worked! My 3 finger drag got ALOT stronger, and I feel no tweakiness in both drag/2 finger positions. I now train 3 fingers on the hangboard with my MCP joint straight and only curl pinky in at the PIP joint. It's like retraining your body to hold a spoon differently. Mar 27, 2019 · Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. Your little finger will hang off the hold while your index, middle, and ring fingers grab the hold. The home of Climbing on reddit. Pre-injury, I favored a 4 finger grip and would even have said that my 3-finger drag was a weakness. Open-Hand Crimp: (AKA “3-finger drag”) The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. Climbing on limestone is my favorite, so I figured trying to bulletproof my hands to pocket strains wasn’t a bad idea. starting a hangboard routine and not climbing as much for a while to get my fingers used to the stimulus. May 1, 2024 · The Three Types of Crimps. Then, when I got to the point where I knew I'd need to do 3 finger drag holds, I started using the biggest campus board edge, feet on, doing 3 finger drags, and slowly lowering more and more weight onto that hand. I do repeaters, 3 sets 6 reps 7 on 3 off. com Nov 2, 2024 · One of the aspects of training pockets/3fd is loading and stretching your lumbricals by curling unused fingers, making them more robust. So when people suggest using open crimp, I think I have to just half crimp every hold that isn't a sloper because 4 fingers half crimp is probably still less stress on the tissues than 3 fingers u/artvandelay7 's Neil Gresham link shows drag being used interchangeably with open hand. You refer to 3 finger drag, which is a true open hand hang (not many people can get 4 fingers on in a drag position). Keep it slow, do a couple each climbing sesh, don't go too fast. If open hand is not the same as 3 finger drag, personally I can't see how you can open grip with 4 fingers unless your pinky is a lot longer than mine. You’ll need to take your little finger off and hook the first joints of the index, middle and ring fingers over the hold. Ive been climbing for a year now and your second paragraph described me exactly when i first started hangboarding several months ago. For reference, my middle finger's finger tip (first pad) is 28. Had the same issue (lumbrical tear at ring finger, from climbing on MR pockets). I've seen really drastic gains in my 3 finger drag, and I have trouble understanding them. The fingers I strained are the left pinkie and middle and right ring Sloper strength is one of the weirdest things to train. I am now completely back to normal, and now my 3-finger drag is much stronger. I climb with a guy that can do insane 3 finger drags but cant full crimp for his life, and I can do 200% bw on a 20mm crimp just fine with 4 fingers, but if I switch to a 3 finger drag I can barely manage 120% Like a lot of people, my half crimp is stronger than my 3 finger drag. I have really fat fingers and shorter than average pinkies, so I'm a little more concerned with 3 finger grips than others with different anatomies may be. I’m not sure how much you weigh but for most adults your numbers here are going to be less than 1. I started training front/back three once my main grip required adding too much weight. 5 strength to weight ratio meaning that you’re probably climbing at moderate grades and you have significant headroom for your finger strength to improve. Hangboarding’s transfer from off-the-wall training to on-the-wall performance is almost instantaneous, especially considering that improvements in finger strength will increase both maximum boulder and sport grade. So yeah- 3 finger drag will help, but if you don't have the core/shoulders to press down on the slopers while moving your body around them in space it won't matter. This means that your fingers should be as open as possible. I've noticed that with a three finger drag, since the angle of the finger changes, I'm able to get much more of my finger on it and stay under the hold That said, the three-finger drag can be a strong grip if you train it. I have started to train the three finger drag as it is a personal weakness, and I'm starting to feel a bit stronger. 1. Nov 10, 2022 · Hangboarding is undoubtedly one of the most sport-specific strength exercises that you can do for climbing, aside from climbing itself. I used to hang +50 lbs open hand but could barely do bodyweight half crimp. At one point last year, I had 3 finger injuries at once. Every other day, 7-10 second holds, 2-3 minute rest between, 10 total sets in a day. In a 20 mil one arm hang I can add roughly 25 lbs more to 3 finger drag than half crimp, so I have a weak half crimp compared to other grips, but I don't half crimp very much on the wall. I can't even 3 finger an 8mm edge but I can crimp the fuck out of it with +. I started incorporating a slow warm up. Climbing is technical, but not as rigorous as the sciences when it comes to language. Mine was in a small side pull pinch which put the other fingers in more of a half crimp than a drag. Do this every other day and no climbing for the next two weeks. Moved Permanently. Take off as much weight as you can with a pulley, then slowly remove weight over the weeks/months as the 3 finger drag gets stronger. . Start on your knees and slowly shift weight onto your fingers. I literally couldnt make a half crimp position with my fingers collapsing into 3 finger drag. I can hang +15/+20 back 3 for 10 seconds. However, now when I am doing moves that require open hand grips, I almost instinctually switch to a 3 finger drag on the As a large-handed climber I also love the three finger drag, but the healthy way to do it is less comfortable and feels less strong so when I can get four fingers on, I do. I'm an intermediate climber with long fingers. I've been having an issue where if I push my fingers all the way to the back, the thickness of the hangboard edge causes me to naturally want to curl the fingers closer to 90, rather than straight. I have hangboarded 3 finger drag a bit in the past, but nothing too consistent. Around 8:54 he shows an exercise to build three-finger drag flexion (scalable with feet on the ground) I'm curious about what others think about this. I'm currently suffering from a tfcc issue and notice I have been using the three finger drag significantly more on my injured side. Aug 25, 2019 · Light high rep finger curls after climbing and/or light 3 finger drag; Mobility work in hot water bath or hot tub once a day; Extensor strengthening, if it helps; Massage, if it helps; Finger tip pushup supports hold (just holding the top position) with straight fingers. 33 votes, 15 comments. I believe Aidan Roberts is somewhat similar in that he is fairly weak on a hangboard in half crimp, but very strong with a flexed pinky. I do not completely weight my fingers I do about 60% body weight. My three finger drag is by far my strongest grip but because of the discomfort I have been reducing my use of the grip to almost zero while climbing. I have a short pinky and can not get it on the majority of holds unless it is a solid jug. The 3 finger open hand grip feels more comfortable but weaker since there is no pinky. They just feel comfortable, I don't really know how to explain it. Have been testing limits until I feel pain this week while climbing to compare with prior weeks, and progress is definitely being made. I climb in an area where all the rock is limestone, and I did find that 2/3 finger pockets felt significantly less "tweaky" after I started training 3 finger drag on the hangboard. I want to train it but I'mnot strong enough to support my body weight. in general use the injured finger only with the two surrounding fingers also engaged, as this will take some load off the lumbrical muscle But look, this is very often the case: Can crimp with all 4 fingers on no pain + three finger drag (bonus points with dropping of the pinky towards palm) causes lotta pain = (at least, but not necessarily limited to) lumbrical injury (of some kind/degree). It was super weak at first. In that case, 3 finger drag is probably a great candidate (and then front three/back three in half crimp). Hi! I have a silly question. e. I injured (what I believe to be) my flexor tendon in my left ring finger by catching a ledge with a 3 finger drag (other hand off the wall), when my feet cut. And yes we are scared of falling. I’ve also been doing finger rolls after every session, 5 sets of 20 reps. Nov 10, 2024 · You've identified that you are already strong in the 3 finger drag and weaker at crimping. You could have a two-finger drag, so the 3 is usually included. It will feel weird because your body isn't used to it and your reflex will be to default to a non 3-finger drag. Should I train this 3 finger grip more until it is stronger and use this more? Is there any detriment to climbing without the pinky and neglecting it while training the 3 finger open hand grip? Thanks all! I have been climbing 3 years, training and climbing hard for 2 years, I climb around v10 outdoors, and primarily am a boulderer. Unless it's like simple mobility stuff, I don't like everyday rehab work. I'd have thought that prioritising the weakness would be most likely to see gains in your climbing. Is this normal or should I work on trying to angle my hand to get my pinky on more? 4 finger open =/= 4 finger drag (4finger drag beeing 3 finger drag + pinky in drag position) 4 finger open is for me having 4 fingers on with my Index finger beeing open (not 90 degree). Personally my open hand climbing is significantly weaker than my crimping and I would like to bring this weakness up. not half-crimping every hold soaking my hands in hot water multiple times a day, especially when I wake up and after climbing. Around 14:23 he shows a mind-boggling feat of strength by hanging one-handed three-finger drag on a beastmaker 2000 middle edge and can even flex his hand under that load. I had an experience almost identical to yours. As the hold gets larger, the discrepancy becomes less apparent. You are right that its almost impossible to 3 finger open hold most indoor tiny crimps. I'm only trying to help you know where to start your journey. It took about 1-2 months to get back to no-pain. Oft I tend to drop into a three finger drag while climbing when I'm really struggling right at my limit and just about to fall off. I can only hang 10kg for front 3. I've been climbing pretty regularly since 2013, but as soon as I started to reach into the 12's 2 years ago and project harder routes for me, I've been experiencing lots of finger injuries. So much of sloper strength is core/shoulder strength, as well as open hand strength. Like I said: Google it. So on a 10mm edge, I'm getting ~1/3 of my finger pad on it with a half crimp. Yet another person who had a lumbrical strain from fully curling pinky into palm. Like the half crimp, the three-finger drag can be trained in a variety of ways: edge lifting, hangboarding, board training and bouldering. I started at -20% bodyweight with 3 finger drag on the hangboard, and eventually worked up to +20% bodyweight. I wouldn't worry about it too much or apply that high level of expectation. It's likely you're just weak in the 3 finger drag position because you've never trained it or you don't use it when climbing a ton (insert u/justcrimp rant here lol). That said, the three-finger drag can be a strong grip if you train it. No pain. 3 finger drag form is much different than half crimp form. I have taken multiple extended rests from finger training and also slowly reintroduced the finger to the grip but the discomfort always comes back. I repeat, no pain. I incorporated the 3 finger drag into my climbing as much as possible. This is due to me using half crimps all the time and rarely using 3 finger drag while climbing unless it's absolutely necessary. Lots of regional differences. FWIW I'll train front three both open and half-crimped. This post could have been written by me a few years ago. *Disclaimer: I only train half crimp max hangs; open was my original strength for the first 3 years, followed by full crimp-- half crimp has always been my weakest position. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Or just a little closed to fully open. First, stop all climbing until you can use basic non-drag 4-finger and 5-finger grip positions without pain. This video goes over my progression and reflections of learning the three finger drag one arm hang on the 20mm edge. The document has moved here. You can do the injured finger on its own with the other hand as resistance. To get used to 3 finger dragging when climbing you really have to focus on using it. I think it will stay this way for a while, even if I only train 3 finger drag on a hangboard. Terminology is important here. On actual hard climbing I have a habit of dropping into a three finger drag, but generally only when I'm stressed, tired or absolutely at my limit so I've come to regard it as a sign that I'm probably about to fall off. Posted by u/cheeseboot - 33 votes and 23 comments I recently tried to use a set of 7:3 repeaters (BW) for three different grip types (open hand, three finger drag and half crimp) - with 2-3 minutes between each set. Using the hangboard with my feet on the ground helps prep my fingers before some easy warm up climbing. Currently taking some time off and doing light exercises (reverse wrist curls). You can also go from fully open to just a little closed. The three finger drag feels so good, my fingers feel loose and warm. It didn't occur to me that there was anything different about 4 fingers drag on a hold and 3 finger open and that held my recovery back for a long time. I have similar finger proportions, and when hangboarding I always try to keep all four fingers on. Hannah Toward (9 years old at the time) relies on the 3-finger drag whilst climbing Free and Even Easier 7a+ at Malham. Should I just hold the hang boardand pull as hard as I can with my feet on the ground? Hey all, I've just started trying to train the 3 finger drag, and have always heard that 20mm is the best training edge. I haven't had anything serious, but experience pain in different parts of my fingers. This includes what I learned from months My plan is do 4 sets of 30 second hangs with about 50-60 pound three finger drag with a lot of rest between, and then also do 10-15 pounds one finger drag for my pinkies since one of the strains is my left pinkie. practicing 3 finger drag and 2 finger pockets. Watched the Dave Macleod lattice assessment youtube video recently and was impressed how strong his 3 finger drag is. 67K subscribers in the climbergirls community. I also very lightly have started hangboarding using a three finger drag. If you do the hangs with extended unloaded fingers, you miss this benefit. 13 climber himself) advised me to do the following until pain subsides: a) to climb on MRP (or IMRP), i. I have been climbing for around two years, and have recently had it pointed out that I only use three fingers on most holds. Another reason to train the three-finger drag is that strength in this grip is a prerequisite for impressive sloper strength. A sub for women and non-binary climbers and their allies Picture one is a "3 finger drag" kinda, if it was weighted you'd see a more flexion through all three dip joints, and your thumb being engaged would virtually never happen on a vertical ledge since that's mechanically disadvantageous. Using your fingers in flexion/extension opposition (tightly curling some fingers while maintaining extension in others) increases strain on the tendons (which are These are kind of your 3 basic grips without dropping fingers or adding in pinches/slopers. See full list on gripped. Donc, depuis quelques années, je m'entraîne à moitié sertir et à « main ouverte », mais je fais glisser 3 doigts comme main ouverte. Because of the different lenght of my fingers my middle and ring fingers are about 90 degree in this position. I had a similar situation and it took me maybe 4 months to get up to bodyweight with a 3 finger drag and I was at a similar strength to you on a half crimp. 5 mm. My surgeon (a 5. Tensioning the lumbricals in this manner may also add flexor force to your FDS tendon. J'ai toujours… How to practice three finger drag while I can't support my body weight in that position? So, my three-finger drag is really weak sinceI've never trained it, I always used four fingers. I love it, actually. May 10, 2022 · The open or drag grip is the default for pockets, yet it is also possible and beneficial to drag on edges, especially on slightly easier terrain in order to conserve energy. Since quarantine started, I have begun hangboarding for the first time in my climbing career. Rehabbed quite a few finger pulleys and tendons and found controlled loading helped more than anything at a certain stage, so I’ve been trying to implement that to my wrist right now. Doing Range of Motion exercises in it helps double. Now, it's gone, I don't think about how many fingers I have on, etc. Sep 12, 2024 · The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. This just seems too hard for me as a warm-up as I'm reaching failure too quickly on the final sets. A bit of background: BW=72kg MVC-7 half crimp= +40kg Stronger back-3 than front-3 half crimp. I don’t have a pulley set up I just lightly stand on a scale. Well I know you are strong in what you train. It’s a popular grip that some climbers use for the majority of their climbing. It's simpler, and it transfers very well to climbing (where it's common to either not have space for all four fingers or to miss a Hold and not be able to readjust). If I keep my fingers in the open crimp position (ie, PIP joint of the index finger is straight), my pinky is not long enough to reach the crimp, turning my "open crimp" into a 3-finger drag. Moving my pinky up onto the crimp seems to inevitably move me into a half crimp finger position. ngsje renytg bpkqsl rtuxi fev mfseo swuyjhx eeazd vupqq xpd