Nylon vs dyneema slings reddit. it's just part of the cost of a UL rack.

Nylon vs dyneema slings reddit But knotting dyneema is far worse than knotting nylon slings. and yet my dyneema slings and cams have a regular replacement schedule. And perfect an anchor setup that minimizes or eliminates knots in slings. . I carry a mix of Dyneema and nylon slings. These materials exhibit different strength characteristics: Nylon Slings. In a loop you are fine or with two strands to each leg of the anchor. The home of Climbing on reddit. And yes we are scared of falling. X-Pac I want to love for it’s waterproofing. The document has moved here. I sometimes carry one 120 cm TIED nylon sling. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. Most common applications are alpine draws, slinging e. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). In a pinch, a nylon sling or cordelette is a good alternative to your normal prusik loop - Anything made with dyneema is a less safe option as the ~300F~ melting point is much more attainable than that of nylon's ~400F~, it's also more suceptible to physical damage from abrasion. For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect for using for years. no risk of a static material taking a dynamic load) and B) the rope absorbs a lot of the dynamic force of falling. My first choice for lining. Feb 9, 2023 · Slings made from polyamide are cheaper than Dyneema slings and have the previous shown advantage: they are wider. Sport anchor: 2 quickdraws Trad anchor: cordelette or climbing rope We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. If you make your own slings, tie your nylon webbing with a water knot that has long tails (at least 2" long). Personally I like Dyneema webbing for load bearing purposes but it is $$$ and available in limited widths so you can’t use it with all components. 92oz Cuben hybrid, but at a higher weight. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. Nylon is a widely used material for making climbing slings due to its durability and cost-effectiveness. HowNot2Highline on youtube has a good video comparing nylon to dyneema slings. Shop for Bulk Webbing. It's smooth to the touch (I live in NZ and wear a lot of Merino wool sweaters to work with no pilling issues) and feels a bit thin but mine has held up really well over the years. At the end of the day, a $9 double-length nylon sling with some knots in it will do the same job. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. If you can afford it, we recommend buying mostly Dyneema due to the lighter weight and bulk, but still carrying 2-3 nylon slings for using in anchors or to extend the first piece of a pitch, if desired. Dyneema Slings. I'm planning on picking up a Defy Insidious sling and they offer it in waxed canvas and a ballistic nylon. That's all been replaced by dynema slings. You're using the FB knot to ascend the rope. Edit: Thank you everyone for the input! I ended up going with the waxed canvas. In normal trad areas I don’t take the locking draw, as many slings, or as many free biners. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. They are slimmer in width than a traditional nylon sling, but not as thin as a dyneema one, and much thicker in depth and stiffer than a purely nylon or dyneema sling. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. 22Kn for a sewn sling) and perhaps more importantly the mode of failure isn't consistent. 7mm is what people usually use for nylon. and I sorta am more confident in a normal clip vs a fidlock. I've only been slacking since last Sunday, and only had to buy webbing because I already had the rest of the gear from climbing. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. Since I had the scale out I decided to weigh my sport draws. Its that the DMM video was in specific circumstances with dynamic falls onto the slings with no rope in the system, which IS dangerous. In a top-roping situation, your anchor slings are fine: they are 1) likely under constant load (i. While we are not suppose to fall directly on Dyneema slings and these test are worst case, it seems like nylon is the better material, but people like Dyneema because it's l Feb 11, 2016 · You’ve seen all the sling choices and aren’t sure: Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. Posted by u/SettingIntentions - 10 votes and 7 comments Can every type of anchor take a lead fall? Some people use 7mm cordelettes(10kn), some people use nylon or dyneema slings(22kn), and some people use the rope. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. Dyneema slings are prized for their light weight and low bulk, and alpine/winter climbers often prefer them for not absorbing water. dmm has a very nice video regarding slings. So that leaves me with ballistic nylon/cordura as my choices for external fabrics. I have a couple of Edelrid's Techweb slings that are a dyneema core and nylon sheath. I use 6mm nylon cord. Nylon grips better. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. I'm making a frame out of plywood, and looking at different materials for the sling/webbing. I thought of the sort of webbing used on old aluminum lawn chairs. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). You can see the strength of the nylon sling is higher in every case. This stuff: Will Staples hold this in the wood? Any tips on how to attach it? Maybe wrap it a couple times? My understanding is that they where trying to demonstrate that knotting your own dyneema slings is a bad idea because they can fail at relatively low loads (in a dynamic situation 15Kn vs. Jan 23, 2025 · Nylon vs. Dyneema composite fabric is 2 layers of plastic film with some Dyneema fibers laminated in between to reinforce it. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. Junk is rated for way more than you need. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. I've found that X-Pac bags are much easier to clean (and less likely to even need cleaning) and keep their shape when not fully packed out better than nylon. I still use the odd 120 cm nylon slings here and there, as it's a little bit dynamic and it's easier to untie knots. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. I've been using the… The bottom line is that these videos are talking about what happens when static material is dynamically loaded. Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. 4oz/square yard and is even lighter than dyneema X-grid. Overview: Nylon vs Dyneema . Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. That doesn't surprise me that they are thick. I would use 5. Sep 25, 2020 · It is a stronger material compared to nylon and therefore can receive the same strength rating as a nylon sling while using less material. Used to EDC and travel with 500D and 1000D Cordura bags, then tried X-Pac and 1680D ballistic nylon. Plus, in a pinch, the cord could be used for a prusik (or two), which is another thing you wouldn't want to do with a dyneema sling. Polyester is for all other purposes or if I’m trying to cut costs. 5mm dyneema or kevlar for an anchor but you need to know the limitations. The slings seem to have twice the durability, so wouldn't those be my safest bet? I can't wrap my head around which approach is the hardest to mess up, which is probably the one I'd use. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. When it comes to climbing slings, the choice between nylon and Dyneema can significantly affect their load capacity. Using nylon webbing or sewn slings does offer a bit of savings compared to dynex or spectra, but the bulk kills that for me. There's also the drop tower tests that DMM has done. Posted by u/patjune19 - 1 vote and 15 comments Jul 2, 2024 · Edelrid tested the strength of both “polyamid” aka nylon, and “high-density polyethylene”, aka Dyneema, in 3 ways: 1) a single strand, 2) in a sewn sling, and 3) a sewn sling with a single overhand knot in the middle. e. For a single strand kevlar would be heading towards sketchy since with a knot it’s probably 7kn. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. The Cordura branded 1680D on the AER City Pack is pretty good. One of the tests they do is to put a knot in and break test. I also have multiple different slings with me anyway (Saxon Switzerland protection) and some spare biners on my harness. I’d prefer to discuss than downvote - you bring up a common complaint. The rope stretch vastly outweighs the difference between nylon & Dyneema, negating the difference for slings & draws. Posted by u/SettingIntentions - 1 vote and 15 comments 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". So dyneema slings tend to be thinner and lighter than conventional nylon slings. cheaper; colorful I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. Yes, the knots weaken the sling, but I'm not sure you'd live through a 22kn impact anyway. I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). it's just part of the cost of a UL rack. Climbing Cord. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. They are also light for alpine stuff. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. 5mm would widely be considered too thin. V-Thread Material - 7mm Nylon Two Point Ice Screw Anchors - 10mm Dyneema Sling setup as a quad Glacier Travel Prussics - 6mm Nylon (Anything thicker won't bite well on the rope generally) 24" Picket - 10mm Dyneema Sling 120cm in length girth hitched For the 4 foot slings, my preference is to tie them out of nylon (not Dyneema) webbing. It's a polyester face fabric laminated to a dyneema composite fabric. 70 denier woven nylon are gonna shred. Few are really aware of it but Xpac X21 is 25% lighter than VX21 @ around 4. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. A nylon sling would be more robust than a dyneema sling, but they are bigger and more unwieldy for such a purpose. The reason dyneema breaks in those videos is not due to the peak forces being applied, but rather the how dynamic the force is applied. The only con is cost. Knots in nylon= ok knots in dyneema= less ok but still okay. For nylon slings I honestly don't think it makes much difference. Personally, I'd recommend 240cm dyneema instead. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. VX07 isnt durable because it's 70 denier face fabric is just that. Moved Permanently. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. As you probably know, dyneema doesn't stretch at all. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). dyneema is a poorer choice for friction hitches, but it'll work in a pinch of course. I like the space vs the tech brief I had. on boats, silnylon is used for sails, which would be exposed to more sun and tension than my shelter, which is still functional after 20y of weekend trips. Most trad climbers would prefer to make do with whatever's already on their rack (ie slings) for the rappels rather than bringing a bulkier specialty piece. If you slip off the belay ledge and shock-load the anchor, dyneema breaks surprisingly (and scarily) easily. NYLON. Pros. Bulk webbing is only available in nylon. The sling material doesn't matter too much, dyneema slings stretch significantly less but this won't have much impact on the 'feel' of the line, much less than the stretch of the webbing, tension of the line, height of anchor ect. This is an advantage because the polyamide slings used on ground level can guarantee safety whilst your brain is thinking of all imaginable life-sustaining measures at a dizzying height… a not to be underestimated fact on exposed Aug 18, 2019 · Your decision will need to be based on whether you have preferences regarding price, weight, or the specific attributes of Nylon vs. Dyneema. There's not much friction involved to generate heat compared to using an auto-block as a 3rd hand when rappelling. I'm trying to create a sling for an outdoor rocker- a cushion sits on a frame. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. 1. I had some nylon slings and the knots they make are a pain, you can still use them as a girth hitch to clean, in all I prefer dyneema, it’s thinner, smaller and easier to make the knots Reply mustang__1 • Sep 1, 2023 · All 10 slings that we tested for this review side-by-side for comparison, arranged from thinnest on top to thickest on the bottom. Bad things (can) happen. Dyneema and kevlar is too slippery (especially when wet) and the water knot can and will most likely fail under tension. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. In the same test on a drop tower, a FF2 absolutely destroyed a dyneema sling with a knot, while the same fall in a knotted nylon sling actually reduced the impact because the knot tightened and stretched absorbing the load. Cord is useful for creating custom-length slings, such as a cordelette, that can be used in anchor construction or in friction hitches for rappels and aid Aug 31, 2020 · The discussion over nylon vs. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). For weight, dyneema is incredible. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. I bold branded because some users still think anything with the word Cordura is abrasive lol. rock horns for protection, or to connect you to an anchor. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. TL;DR: IIRC, they found that the nylon sling failed at MBS and the UHWMPE sling failed at 50%. Arguably this material is more durable in a pack build that the 2. 15mm or 9/16" should be fine. So, you can use either nylon or Dyneema to ascend the rope. Dyneema would be a bit better. So now I think my system is set, 2L tech case/sling, 6L sling, 15L sling, 25L evade, and 40L capsule for travel. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. This DMM testing in the link below shows failure of Dyeema in fall factor 1 & 2 and nylon performed better. From the top: Mammut Contact, Petzl Pur'Anneau, BD Dynex, Sterling Dyneema, Camp USA 11mm, Trango Low Bulk, Metolius Open Loop, BlueWater Titan, Sterling Nylon, and BD Nylon. I hate the scratchiness and don’t trust it for longevity- I’m already seeing pieces >5 years start to delaminate. Here are the results. Time alone is not a good indicator of softgoods lifespan Skinny slings do not last as long as fatter slings, simply because less material. This post dives quickly into the pro’s and con’s along with the best uses and the rest of the post is dedicated to explaining exactly why we’ve labeled them as such. afaik you can only knot nylon tape safely. I like the 6mm rope. BUT - when creating a situation where a high factor fall could happen on the sling alone, nylon has proven safer. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Nylon slings are a bit heavier, but having to rack 10 of those would be a massive pain. 6mm in reality is probably fine - but you don't see too many folks using it. The weight savings alone make dyneema the go to option for many trad climbers and alpinists who froth over having the lightest Kevlar is super bad with knots and dyneema is pretty bad. Namely: the older PAS devices were made of nylon or dyneema. It also eliminates the need for a 18L ish backpack. Sewn slings are better in strength, weight and usability. But the solution is simply don’t do that! Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. Polyamide is nylon and often a bit lighter but I hear the UV resistance is considerably less. Light and low bulk (unlike 7mm nylon), strong (unlike 6mm nylon), and flexible and easy to work with (unlike tech cord). Dyneema has a lower melting point than nylon, so the heat caused by the friction of the prusik and the rope rubbing together is more likely to melt/weaken/break a dyneema third hand than a nylon third hand. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. The HMG packs use fabric made by the company Dyneema, but it's not made out of the Dyneema Fiber (utra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene). 5x the single line rated load. But I often have a spare 60cm sling or two on the back of my harness to use as protection but I can extend things with them if needed. Nylon and dyneema are super-strong materials, but they don’t stretch, which means they could possibly break if you happen to fall I included a sewn nylon and hand tied draw as I have seen both in the wild. I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on which mater the norwegian standard advices nylon, but it hasn't been updated for a while and i believe kevlar/aramid will be the new norm -- however, nylon has worked and served for a long time, i have no issues with using it, nor giving one to my clients. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. Dyneema is significantly more static than nylon so it essentially has no stretch so the the deceleration from a fall directly onto it occurs over a much shorter relative timespan compared to the nylon. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. g. Mar 13, 2019 · Cons: More expensive, bulkier than dyneema The Petzl Connect Adjust was designed to address the main problems with the older personal anchor systems. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking Its not that strength of knotted spectra was the problem, you should pretty much assume a 50% loss in strength in any sling you tie a knot in, whether nylon or spectra. lojnjk gnphfku autd axfm iaic opfw nbbu zmgvqv mrppq tgsrgf