Lead vs trad climbing reddit.
I like climbing for more than 15 feet at a time.
Lead vs trad climbing reddit. Even gym lead climbing isn't like outdoor lead climbing.
Lead vs trad climbing reddit They place well; and expand a surprising amount for the smallness. 7 C1 if you get shut down. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. However, I am looking to get into lead climbing and potentially start going outside once I'm comfortable with the basics of lead (and when New England winter allows it lol). I've been doing it for many years now and I still have to dial my head in when I go for a redpoint or limit onsight. Immediately yell, “Sport climbing is neither!” at anyone who will listen and start planning your next climbs: the Diamond, El Cap, Trango Tower, etc. Should I be learning self rescue, obscure rappel techniques, or high altitude specific skills? Not all 5. Taking it slow, learning a lot. I can't conceive of a scenario where you could lead climb without having been climbing with a leader on several occasions. 12a. Buying my first sling cleaning lead routes. 8mm and 10. 60 votes, 10 comments. e. 12a but if there are a few bolts of v3 climbing to a v4 crux, the climb will likely be 5. In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. These tend to vary in length and can be longer than sport draws so they can reach further away placements, and they are often lighter as they usually need to be carried up the climb along with Sure! I think there is the trad specific part of projecting and the non-trad specific part of projecting. - I can just go alone 2. My trad RP is actually higher than my sport (13a vs 12d). i was on a 5. yap, i have a 0. I like placing gear and solving the puzzle of protection. If 1/2lb makes it breaks your climb and you're not climbing 5. More loops, heavier, wider back, upper body on some. Sport routes tend to be delicate and steep. Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. But here's my only advice that seems relevant to this thread. We came into it with a strong sport climbing background, understanding of pro, and general dos/don'ts. I'm climbing 6b+ on sport and E2/3 on trad. Their meant for aid and sitting all day. 10 pitch is stress-free when you understand that it goes at 5. Personally I enjoy bouldering more because 1. Check the length that's needed for your area, if you're climbing single pitch an extra 10 meters don't hurt if in doubt (but a too short one does) Diameter should be something between 9. ETA: I’m not concerned about climbing weight as much as overall pack weight for multi-day excursions. g. I also have no intention of starting a sport vs trad vs bouldering debate, as the question I'm asking is only really about trad, and I understand rapping or lowering off of fixed anchors/chains on a sport route. Some opinions about this would be great. Yes, I am talking about the Solution Guide. And if you happen to drop your reverso on a trad day, then you switch to a munter, and deal with the rope twists at home. For example, a climb that has 5. Same loops, same padding. Sport Climbing Sport climbing is the type of lead climbing… honestly i think you can find shitty personalities in every kind of climbing--sure you've got trad dads who won't climb harder than 5. Likely hanging some TR as well and harder multipitch. C4s are great for pure trad: when I’m pumped while placing gear I really enjoy a thumb loop. Curious what folks use and are happy with. 3a) From the bottom, I belay off my belay loop with the ATC and two carabiners O&O 3b) From the top, it depends on the situation and belay stance/anchors. Didn't change anything on my climbing, I think the best is to understand why accidents happens. Trad climbing can be a complicated affair, I wouldnt rush into it. Keep in mind lead climbing is very different from TR or bouldering. it's that easy! It was some tourist climbing around my place, not experienced in outdoor. I want to do alpine climbing (e. So it occurs to me you are probably talking soft vs hard catch in the gym. All that matters is if you're having a good time or not, unless you're climbing 5. Slow and steady, gaining confidence and experience. 1 and 0. For me trad climbing is the most fun, sport second and bouldering third. I climb 5. And yes we are scared of falling. 4. 2 climbing will get 5. 11's in short order. i haven't whipped on them yet so i dont know about the durability, but i fucked a . 6 called sweat, near the top of the route. Extendable slings are great in this setting. Even gym lead climbing isn't like outdoor lead climbing. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. 6/5. 6 at tahquitz or J Tree. Some gyms rate TR and lead climbs differently, this is a mistake. Trad and sport harnesses are the exact same. -it’s a short period of trying super hard then stopping, like doing a max set at the gym, I enjoy this type of hard and fast exercise followed by a rest period. I would argue route climbing gets you way more technical skills. 14. Jun 28, 2010 · I've been climbing for so long that I can make a direct correlation on most routes i. I think it was worth it. None of your choices will capture the basic way to do it. Right now I have been sport climbing and now how to lead and clean routes, and soon will get into 2-3 pitch of sport only climbing. 2 z4. 11+ trad, then youre probably better off losing 1/2lb body weight or getting more skill/experience. Getting more and more into trad, and I've been doing so with a pair of La Sportiva Solutions, which admittedly, I adore climbing in, but hate having on for multiple pitches or entire days. If you are single pitch climbing, it's probably fine, but multipitch climbing with a full double rack, draws, anchor material, atc/grigri, and water bottle/packable jacket gets really tight without a lot of gear loop space. And cardio, the amount of hiking was the crux for me, not the climb. See full list on climbingschool. I’ve been climbing for 2 years and have just started to get into trad climbing and multi pitch. grand Teton, high sierras, etc. Different climbing disciples are sprenading apart from each other more and more (not a bad thing). 3mm. I have to almost meditate before each send to keep my breathing under control and perform my best with exposure. The intended use is for single pitch trad and sport climbing, at the project level. i honestly dont remember the next couple routes, but i DO remember my first trad fall. Something between 9. We really just used it as a way to jumpstart our trad climbing careers because we didn't know too many other climbers to go the traditional "mentor-follower" style. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Apr 24, 2023 · Congratulations! You’ve narrowly survived your first trad route. If you climbed a route ground-up, bolting on lead, I'd still consider that "traditional climbing" since that's how bolted routes pre-sport-climbing were done. My background in placing gear is 30% alpine, 65% mixed sport climbing (you have bolts and pegs but using gear is advisable) and 5% pure trad. When he did untie the previous knot he felt. A big wall harness is different . View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. You need to lead as much as possible to gain the "lead head" and skills for dealing with situations that can develop. My first trad lead was Peaches 5. I primarily boulder and always thought things were technical just because they felt difficult or had to be precise on my boulder projects but those sport and trad climbers have so many more knee bars hand jams slabs faces pockets dihedral aretes. For the trad specific part, it's not quite pinkpointing (leading with pre-placed gear) but more like headpointing (leading while placing gear after figuring out all the gear beta in advance by rehearsing a bunch either on TR or lead). When I'm on a redpoint attempt of a trad* route near my Apr 29, 2024 · If you're just getting into rock climbing via the climbing gym, you've probably heard a lot of lingo you don't quite understand. 7 1P at Red Rocks, the route wanders a bit, despite using up all my 24" slings and quickdraws the rope drag at the top was ridiculous. . with the climbing rope (I mostly do multi We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The reason for this apart from being an old fart who has been around a long time is that I treat sports climbs exactly the same way as trad and climb them on sight from the ground up and hopefully with no rests. My take is that the dragons are really great for alpine climbing. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally dependent: My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. 15 sport, 5. 1" ramp that was really more like easy 4th, about 30 feet tall(but felt shorter). I haven't boulder much, and I love/appreciate the head game of lead climbing sport and trad. I personally think totems are worth every penny and they make me feel like I’m not gonna die. There is also trad climbing where you do not use anchors, but put your own gear into the wall. Can anyone weigh in on what would be better? Assuming you are what I would consider an advanced boulder (v8+ on real rock?) you should be able to transition really easily to trad climbing and be busting out 5. if it is, you did something else very wrong. 12a climbs will have a v4 on them, but if there is a v4 on a route, it will be at least 5. 3. 9. Grades should be created because of the difficulty of the climbing moves and the size/direction/type I have a different experience with the post-2018 Adjama: I am right in the sweet spot for the medium size but the gear loops on the left are not symmetrical to the right side and are too far back, the gear loop stitching is loose (lots of reports of people losing their rack of cams on climbs), and hanging comfort is no better or even worse than Petzl's entry-level harness, the Corax. I generally prefer to clove hitch into the master point, attached a 2nd locker for my follower to clip into, and use a reverso on the shelf as my belay device. When lead climbing, you have to take a hand off the wall to then reach and clip. Totems flexible stems are also favorable for horizontal cracks (gunks) vs semi rigid stems such as c4s or friends. Mostly I lead on double ropes. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. The obvious example is speed climbing, but between bouldering and sport climbing (lead and top) the gap has increased the last years due to the modern style of setting. I like climbing for more than 15 feet at a time. Then go back to bolt clipping for a year before you get up the courage to do it all again. I like taking whippers. For me, after years of only trad climbing and plateauing in the 10's, getting serious about bouldering was key to progressing. (Like 1/2lb). I’ve had to basically reteach people how to belay properly that learned on a grigri without developing best practices (for any belay device) like always keeping your hand on the break strand. Max onsight are both 12b. ) but want to know what skills I should have solid before I dive into the mountains. You of course will never bring a different device based on you lead or you're the second, they work for both. This is different from toproping, where the rope is pre-hung at the top of the route. If you're on your 3rd trad lead ever and you're out of gear, looking at a dangerous fall, and all you have is a horizontal nut placement, you should reassess what you're climbing Planning to retire my old Mammut Infinity in the next few months and looking to buy something to replace it. You can share carabiners between your quickdraws and alpine draws and just swap them out depending on if you're trad climbing and sport climbing. the grades don't change, but the difficulty does. com. 5-9. You don't want to sport climb with alpine draws. Trad climbing with quickdraws is not ideal, but it works if you bring a few alpines as well for strategic extensions. Try Tonto as your first trad lead. 2 x4 on a small whipper so they are on my shitlist. - Trad gear (placing, bouncing, falling) absolutely damages sandstone, and other rock to a lesser degree, but it’s only a contention because those cracks are also used for hand/foot placement, whereas in sport climbing the holds aren’t affected by the protection. I guess then you probably have more time to do a soft catch. The leads in my gym are primarily overhanging so banging the wall isn’t generally an issue. Some have adjustable legs and some don’t. 2 climbing to a v4 to more 5. The gear loops are tiny compared to my dead bird harness. Hey man, Bouldering is climbing without a rope and you do not climb nearly as high. 12+. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. 7 but go on about how "sport climbing is neither," but you've also got sport climbers who shit on trad climbers for the precise reasons you've outlined and argue the opposite side of the coin that sport climbing my first live trad lead was a "5. Only sport climbing, he messed up at the anchor attaching his carabiner with the figure of 8 knot to the previous knot. As well, a single rope rappel doesn't quite make it safely, so my follower had to lug up another rope so we could tie them together and rap the full length safely. Most trad climbing involves lead climbing, in which the rope starts at the bottom of the climb with the climber. May 29, 2020 · Lead Climbing vs. I just googled it and some nice articles came up relating to gym climbing lead belay catches. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. Easy TR access, easy gear, easy climbing. In theory, a trad route of a given grade should be similar in physical difficulty to a sport route of the same grade, but will feel harder because of carrying a cumbersome rack, the knowledge and skill needed place gear effectively - and/or the mental control required when opportunities to place gear aren't as frequent as you might like. Sport or Lead climbing is when you attach your rope, using quick draws, to fixed anchors in the wall as you go up. 13 trad with a quad rack in the same harness i sport climb 5. When TR'ing, you have both hands all the time. For most of trad climbing bailing is easier than sport! You just aid through the hard moves. This article will explain the differences between the two main types of roped rock climbing - sport climbing vs trad climbing (traditional climbing). I like the mental and physical analysis that goes into the red point process. If it helps for determining common practices, I believe the climbing video I am referencing was shot somewhere in the UK. No amount of reading or YouTube is a substitute for just getting out and doing as much multipitch trad climbing as you can. I led Cat in the Hat as my first multi-pitch trad lead. I use an ATC-Guide. Reply reply. The switch between top and lead makes a slightly noticeable difference, not too much, but enough to make you see the difference between the 2 and the + which only makes it easier to pull out slack. He suggested buying Alpine Quickdraws as opposed to regular quickdraws if I will eventually get into trad climbing. I have heard that I would love the Up Mocc's and then also that the TC Pro is the end all be all of trad shoes. it was just to get a trad lead out of the way. Easy trad at red rock is easy. 14 trad, or v16 boulders then OG ethics don't really matter imo On gear you gotta carry it up place it right and move on, that's a big part of the climbing, recognize that as well However, habits like these lead to pretty terrible belay technique that increases the chances of fucking up when you’re not using a grigri. 1. The first pitch of chips and salsa is really easy. Futzing with over the shoulder slings sucks more then carrying an extra 10 carabiners. The hand guard is also helpful, but if you know how to properly hold a grigri it's more of a nice fit (the guard is nice too). The home of Climbing on reddit. Which I do see myself headed into. Nothing wrong with some training weight as well! Happy climbing! My usual preference for building an anchor on trad routes is the standard three piece system using a cordalette. Toproping. That was the heart of the whole ethic wars back in the day -- rap bolting and bolting on TR were what people took issue with, not bolting in and of itself. Even sport climbing you want to follow someone up first and get some basic instruction on back clipping, z-clipping, and anchor cleaning before you go out on your own. au Jan 8, 2024 · Trad quickdraws, on the other hand, are used for traditional (trad) climbing and involve connecting to leader-placed protection such as cams or nuts. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. It’s not like a 5. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. 646 votes, 56 comments. - cheaper, the rope + grigri + harness aren’t super expensive but it’s an initial cost for sure. Trying a 5. Bill Newcomb Tower - May 24, 2024 - mystery climber - read the notes I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. eselnstngyjlcinhdwndgjwecfjsmeqzipclaoztkrjnfyftzwooisvku