Dmm offset nuts 1 6 review forum Also they seem to sink slightly better (wider offset angle?). DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts for Sale, Reviews, Deals and Guides. Or is the sizing different for whatever reason? As a massive fan of offset nuts and cams I’ve hoped that DMM would produce their own. Offset nuts aren’t as popular as ‘regular’ nuts and won’t fit in as many placements. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season cr Dec 5, 2008 · Buy the DMM Offset Nuts from Backcountry. Basically, a DMM Offset Nut is an adjustable wedge-shaped nut that is designed to be […] Sep 21, 2022 · Saved Content. Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea. Granite cracks love Dmm offsets. Sep 11, 2024 · If money is tight, a single rack of . Offsets were originally produced in both their brass micro wire, and alloy macro wire (a purely invented term!) forms by HB Climbing of Wales. Offset models are also generally harder to clean because they are asymmetric - they don't want to rotate upwards Jan 4, 2019 · Hugh Banner (HB Climbing) invented the concept of offset nuts BITD. When she passes on the nuts will disappear. Sep 30, 2016 · My granite climbing rack with the DMM Offset Nuts supplemented with a few others. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. 14 Tage Rückgaberecht versandfrei* ab € 100,- Kaufberatung Fachhändler aus Österreich Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. Those nuts are old school but climbers did not know the WC Superlight so they still gave their fate on the DMM Alloy Offset. DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts for trad climbing Micro nuts for secure placements in flared cracks Asymmetrical tapered heads for irregular crack fitting Thicker wires for increased strength and durability Color-coded sizes for easy identification Lightweight design for minimal rack weight Brass and silicone construction for optimal performance Versatile placement range for various DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection for Rock Climbing - Gold - 3 Jan 20, 2010 · Rocks are among the better priced nuts in this review, both independently and as a set. My Forums Use in conjunction with DMM's Wallnuts for comprehensive all season crack protection! 2022 CLOSEOUT Specs. Their color-coded anodized heads make it easy to select the right size, and slightly tapered heads increase security in flaring cracks. Apologies for the long time it has taken to bring these to market, but all the tooling apart from the dies had to be built again from scratch again for every size. HB and DMM are essentially right next door to each other and when he died his wife, Maureen, transferred the design to DMM to carry on the tradition. My Forums Apr 22, 2020 · Set of regular nuts sizes 4-11 (anything DMM is a good call) Offset nuts are pretty tight for Colorado granite and Eldo, but not too helpful in Utah sandstone (again, get the DMMs) A crapload of non locking carabiners you'll actually want to clip for the alpines (bigger, beefier ones), and light for the racking carabiners. One set of nuts will be fine in this area, that changes though if you go to places like Devils Tower which is mostly crack climbing. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Hier findest Du die DMM OFFSET NUTS als Set mit 5 Größen. Sep 21, 2022 · The same applies to the original WC half nut and the dmm halfnut. I also recommend getting one BD #3. Oct 19, 2021 · OFFSET NUTS. The document has moved here. I went home and ordered the #7-#9 pieces. Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars; Can be placed either side or face on, doubling the number of cracks any single piece can protect Aug 8, 2022 · DMM : Model Name A1819AA : Color Red : Material Metal : Suggested Users unisex-adult : Number of Items 1 : Manufacturer DMM : Part Number A1819AA : Size 9 : Sport Type Climbing Nov 10, 2020 · I love my DMM Alloy Offsets. 5 days ago · Do you need offset nuts? Offset climbing nuts make an excellent complement to a rack of nuts. DMM HB Alloy Offset Stopper Set - Sizes 7-11 Asymmetrical taper gives stable placements in offset cracks. Have DMM HBs 7-11. The fact that Wallnuts share the same color scheme as the rest of the Wild Country and DMM Offset Nut makes adding pieces to your rack a breeze. Jan 5, 2018 · Get DMM offset nuts, the are great. Larger Wallnuts feature h This five-set of DMM Peenuts should be on your rack every time you cast off on an ultra-thin aid or sketchy trad pitch. They provide an easy way to rig anchors, secure rappels and create emergency anchors in a pinch. They chose not to change the numbering on the nuts, and instead just standardized the color scheme to match their lineup. 10. Anything larger than the big blue offset should be a 0. com I’d always heard how awesome the old HB Offset nuts were, especially for flaring placements, but after the company went out of business, they were a lot harder to find. Designed for precision placements in narrow cracks and flared rock formations, these nuts offer unparalleled security and versatility. I have never touched an offset piece of pro before. 3 - 3 cams, a set of DMM offset nuts, 6 alpine draws, a nut tool, 1 cordellete or my personal fav a 180cm dyneema sling for an anchor, and a few locking carabiners. Feb 6, 2018 · greggrylls wrote: Edek Falkowski wrote: greggrylls is right about contact area. Despite their simple appearance, Wallnuts are highly featured pieces of climbing hardware. Black Diamond C4 cams, used from Mountain Project, 0. DMM bought their assets and restarted the offset nut product lines. I love my DMM Peenuts. Different alloy is used for each size - smaller Wallnuts are made from a harder alloy to prevent shearing, while larger sizes are softer so they can bite into placements. Wires soldered directly into heads for strength Dec 13, 2009 · If you are a beginner these nuts seat well and are less prone to popping out. Sizes 1-5. These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. You can get a confidence inspiring amount of surface contact in a lot of semi flaring placements that are common to that kind of climbing. A set of offset nuts is a great addition to your rack, especially if you climb on granite a lot. When i go to squamish i carry a lot more regular nuts and only a few small offsets (the yellow dmm is magic) but at index i barely carry regular nuts. All offset models certainly do better in these types of fissures, including the DMM Brass Offset, along with the DMM Alloy Offset and DMM Peenut. Light yet robust and the raw ally faces are defo confidence inspiring… I use them a lot in rattly nut placements or for the 1st piece off the ground to prevent/reduce the ‘un zipping’ effect. Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. 95 Jun 19, 2015 · The DMM Alloy Offsets are nearly twice as strong as the WC Superlight Offsets (12kn vs. With a complex, offset head geometry these nuts will place securely in flared cracks where regular nuts and cams may not sit well. Does Sep 22, 2022 · Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Help Directory All Listings Forums. The offsets seem to be the best bang for the buck when balancing faff factor, ease of use, and cost. com May 3, 2015 · However, DMM's have the advantage of being offset in both placement positions giving you more offset options. 1-3, on Camp Dyon carabiners Wild Country Friends, 0. Reasoning: I like the half nuts but I prioritize efficiency over style, and thus rarely place nuts. The DMM Brass Offsets are consistently some of the best performing nuts in small flares and cracks. The DMM Offset Nut Set 7-11 is a full set of the Offset range, which offers placement opportunities when no other natural protection will fit. Is this something I'm doing wrong while placing them or are they too bomber for their own good? In situations were you have a slightly flaring crack, you can just place a nut lengthwise. Occasionally I climbed with friends who had a set, and they always seemed to work really well. Irregular is better. 10 Positive, 0 Mixed & 0 Negative from 10 Reviews. Mar 5, 2023 · Introduction to DMM Offset Nuts DMM Offset Nuts are some of the most popular and versatile pieces of climbing hardware on the market. Aug 13, 2022 · Offset nuts were originally manufactured by "HB" until they went out of business ~2005. Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars; Can be placed either side or face on, doubling the number of cracks any single piece can protect Nov 10, 2020 · I love my DMM Alloy Offsets. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Recently I got dmm offset nuts and it seems like the nuts are really prone to getting stuck even without weighting them. I don’t think they are totally necessary, especially if you buy a full rack of the DMM Wallnuts. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. The tapered design increases security in flaring placements, and DMM uses soft brass to reduce the chance of fracturing rock sending you on a big ride. Oct 31, 2024 · Most offset climbing nuts, like the DMM Alloy Offset, the DMM Peenut, and the Black Diamond Offset don't do as well in more parallel-sided cracks, but that's okay as most people are more likely to place a cam in these places anyway. Since they are more specialized nuts, offset nuts do cost a bit more. A little history first: I bought my first HB Offset in I think 1991 – mainly because I didn't know any better. The backbone of every trad rack. But I personally do carry offset nuts on my climbing rack. i feel the surface area and horseshoe shape off the dmm really makes them grab, they are the most confidence inspiring nuts. The DMM Offsets are also larger sized offsets in that the WC is only offset in its narrow side. Nov 4, 2012 · Last weekend I had the pleasure of placing DMM offset stoppers. Nov 23, 2021 · 2: Wallnuts (1-7) 3: half nuts. So, the much awaited DMM Alloy Offsets, good, but in their current form far from perfect (see STOP PRESS at the end of this review). Worth the wait as these are such a well thought out addition. Climbing in the Adirondacks a lot (where many cracks are flaring), the offsets make protecting the climbs a lot easier. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Moved Permanently. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a. For going smaller, should I get peenuts or HB brassies? For sizing I'm assuming the brassies line up pretty nicely with largest being 6 and smallest alloy being 7. That said, they are among the most difficult to clean. Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. Jan 27, 2018 · But where you climb is a big factor too. 4-4 random rigid stem cams from Facebook old nuts sport draws This set of DMM Offsets gives you the versatility to protect flaring crack pitches that would otherwise warrant a serious runout. Shop for DMM Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. In situations that are too flaring for that, just look for another spot or keep going. These units have a complex offset shape that offers placement opportunities when nothing else will. In some sense, I honestly think this makes grabbing a given BD offset a little more likely to fit in a particular crack you have your eye set on. The smaller sizes of the standard set, gold -red, find a lot of use. Whether or not to get offset nuts largely depends on where you climb. While they are similar in design to most other curve nuts, what sets them apart are their taller heads that offer more surface area, a more aggressive taper, more user friendly larger sizes, and a color scheme that matches all other Wild Country and DMM nuts. 7kn) and BOTH sides of the DMM have offset taper. I use full range sets of both (including the brass/superlights) and just size 1-3 normal nuts for small sinkers (which seem slightly less bomber on superlights). Use in conjunction with DMM's Wallnuts for comprehensive all season crack protection! 2022 CLOSEOUT Specs. Retail Price: $23. The unique offset shape ensures a snug fit in challenging placements, while the brass construction provides optimal bite and durability Jan 6, 2020 · Cams just don't tend to fit as well in smaller pin scars and flares, and thus a nut is required. DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. If money is not so tight, a double rack of the above cam sizes and 8-10 alpine draws, everything else the same. Thirdly, the wires on the BDs are about 1 to 1-1/2 inches shorter than the DMMs and all 5 are almost the same length. 4-4, on WC Helium carabiners DMM Offset Nuts DMM Wallnuts WC Helium 10cm Draws x6 Mammut UL dyneema slings, 60cm, x6, w/ wiregate carabiners NAH BRO. Gear strength is overemphasized by climbing theoreticians, most of the time the piece pulls before it breaks, but in these small sizes the wire does fail in practice and this considerable difference rules out BD for me. All for sides of the head are square, no curve face to make 3 contacts with the rock. Apr 23, 2020 · I love my offset nuts, rarely rack the regular ones. ) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a Sep 21, 2022 · Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Help Directory All Listings Forums. MICRO NUTS - The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. Even at Verti Call I sell maybe 15 DMM Alloy Offset for 1 WC Superlight Offset which is clearly Aug 17, 2015 · When you're ready for more, buy the 3 or 4 biggest sizes of brass offsets individually (or just go ahead and buy doubles of each). Use in combination with normal nuts to find security in almost any crack. Does Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. But in flared cracks there’s nothing better and an offset nut will slot neatly in when a more regular shape would be too loose. The existence of a #5 Peenut and a #7 Alloy Offset suggests the possibility of something in between. The only route I can remember being happy to have offset nuts at the gunks was Fly Again for the section right off the ledge. Ideal for both trad and aid climbing, DMM Offsets seat securely in places where regular nuts and cams just won't work. You also should pick up the "narrow" camhook from Moses and 6-8 inches of 1/2 webbing for it. out of 10. Related Searches. It was a nut, on sale, in the only climbing shop I knew at the time, so I bought it. Totem cams, 0. 5 cam or larger, so why carry a nut that large? See full list on outdoorgearlab. I'm willing to guess you'll never place the smaller 2 sizes of brass offset nuts because they're crazy thin. Features. My Forums Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. Available in 11 sizes for the Wallnuts, five sizes for the Alloy Offsets and four sizes of the Torque Nuts, the first two sets are colour coded for easy recognition (it pays off to practice with them at the bottom of the crag and learn which colour fits which size of crack), and are compatibility with other brands, too. Other than what I can read in a book, any comments, tips or suggestions when using these pieces of pro in free climbing application only? Aug 9, 2020 · Those nuts has not changed for years. Sizes 7-11. Time will tell. DMM Wallnuts up to size 5 and WC rocks above that and also a set of DMM offsets Apr 28, 2019 · A number 2 BD microstopper is rated 3kN, a number 2 DMM IMP (same size) is rated 5kN. The DMM color coding is also more accurate in its offset size as a blue DMM is roughly the same size as a blue DMM Brass Offset Nut Elevate your climbing experience with the DMM Brass Offset Nut, a must-have for any serious climber. Hier findest Du die DMM OFFSET NUTS als Set mit 5 Größen. They also hired the woman who hand cast the bronze heads of the Brass Offsets. DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. hlvamge dhwxu wcur gtbpv ijpawz ibj kwncg iuhf ars jichjx