Climbing grades v to french Bouldering grades: V scale and french grade conversion? Aug 24, 2023 · Before we jump into the specifics of climbing grades, let’s first take a look at the three main types of climbing: bouldering, sport climbing, and traditional climbing. Rock Climbs. The V-scale is used to rate bouldering problems in the United States, starting at V0. YDS to French grade and French grade to Yosemite is the most common conversion climbers are looking for when sports climbing. The two main free climbing grading systems (which include the two main free climbing disciplines of sport climbing and traditional climbing) are the "French numerical system" and the "American YDS system". This tends to be even more subjective that traditional grades, but lends itself well to the Apr 27, 2025 · Common Pitfalls in Grade Conversion. 9 C2, Grade VI. The ‘V’ grades go from V0 to V15, and are potentially open ended. americanalpineclub. It’s also important to note that French bouldering grades (Font grades) are written in a way very similar to French sport grades. Since both the French sport climbing grade system and the French bouldering grade system function on letters and numbers, the mere difference is the capitalization of the bouldering grades. For example, a route with a high adjectival grade, but low numbered grade (within the scope of the adjectival grade), will be a safe route. How do climbing grades change over time? Climbing grades provide guidance, suggesting the length of time an experienced climber might take to complete the route: Grade I: A couple of hours; Grade II: Closer to four hours; Grade III: Four to six hours (most of the day) Grade IV: One very long day; Grade V: Two days (requires an overnight stay) Grade VI: Two-plus days Universal grade conversion Back to contents . 15d). Oct 13, 2019 · Of course, there cannot be equivalence between UK tech grades and V (or Font) grades, because they are measuring different things (hardest move and overall grade). The French Alpine grading system is unique in that rather than quantifying the difficulty numerically, it uses a broader “adjectival” system to record difficulty, length, altitude, and seriousness of the climb all in one grade. They are for grading sport climbs and traditional climbing, but we will also cover the bouldering grades V-scale and French (Font). It differs from the USA system in that a route that is difficult to protect will get a higher grade. A direct comparison between the New Zealand (Mt Cook/ Frost grading system) developed in 2018, and the French Alpine Grade, UIAA Grade and the Russian Grade is no longer as linear as the Mt Cook/ Logan grading system of 1982. The French numerical system (distinct from the adjectival system, described later) rates a climb according to the overall technical difficulty . Apr 29, 2024 · Like the YDS and French rating system, the V-system is open ended, allowing for advances in climbing ability over time. Bouldering and sport climbing are two related but different disciplines and therefore different grading scales have been created for each. a 5b+. A 5 Font bouldering grade converts to a V1 in the v scale. YDS or Yosemite can alos be We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 7. Feb 6, 2016 · The French climbing grades system is numerical, starting at 1, and each grade is subdivided with letters e. 13a or 5. Sometimes a + symbol is also added to show a route that’s slightly harder than it’s grade but not tough enough for the next grade up e. When I first looked for a useful comparison between Apr 27, 2025 · There are several rock climbing grade systems, each with their own history and regional use, but the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) and the French scale are the two grading systems used most. The French sport system gives each route a difficulty grade consisting of a number between 1-9 (although technically it is open A legendary boulderer at the time, John Sherman, created the ‘V’ grade system – the ‘V’ stood for ‘Verm or Vermin’ which was his nickname at the time. A 5+ (sometimes graded as 5b or 5c) can be converted into a V2 bouldering grade on the V-scale. Climbing Difficulty Ranking IntroductionClimbing is a sport of precision, strength, and mental endurance. French Grades. I. 7 (or the equivalent snow/alpine grade) Grade V: The route will likely require an overnight stay in the middle of the technical portion. The Australian climbing grade scale for technical scrambling and rock routes, another open-ended rating system, runs from 1 (~YDS 3) to 39 (5. Bouldering Grades These bouldering grades differ from the grades used in traditional rock climbing, and use many different systems including: Huevo "V" grades-or the V-scale, Fontainebleau technical grades (Font-scale), route colors, Peak District grades, and British technical grades. South African rock climbing grades are very similar to Australian, with the exception that the upper end of the scale is currently at 41. One has a grade of 5. It is important to remember that when you are looking at climbing grades, you may consider a grade “easier” or more “difficult” than what it has been graded. Converting climbing grades such as French 6c+ to the V scale can be a challenge. 4a, 4b, 4c, 5a, 5b. How can I convert Font grades to V grades in the U. 12b, the other a grade of 5. But here's the twist-they're also subjective. Convert a climbing grade with ease Climbing Grade Converter 🧗 To convert grades, enter the grade into the input, select the grade system (french, yosemite, v-scale) and hit "convert" This is a bouldering climbing grade conversion chart. Bouldering Grades Aug 18, 2017 · Let's take a look at how to read grades on the French scale by examining the grade 7a+. YDS assigns a numerical grade to each climb, ranging from 5. This article will cover the most widely recognized scales: the Vermin Scale (V-Scale) and the Fontainebleau Scale (French Scale). Grade VII: Remote big walls climbed in alpine style. The "7" refers to the difficulty of the climb, the higher the number the harder the climb. 1. Grade VII: Multi-pitch routes with long sections of vertical or thin ice, or mixed routes with lots of highly technical climbing. The French Scale is much more convertible between its top-rope and bouldering equivalents, while the YDS and American bouldering scale, the V scale, are not as convertible. The V scale was developed in the USA and is a system that currently starts with VB for the simplest bouldering problems and goes all the way up to V17 for super experienced professionals. Canadian Winter Commitment Grade: Apr 27, 2025 · Can I convert French climbing grades directly to the V Scale? Can I convert French climbing grades directly to the V Scale? The French Scale is applied to long routes and the V Scale is applied to short boulder problems. This bouldering grades comparison table is designed to help climbers convert from Hueco to French and back to French to V-Scale. Our secret (or maybe not so secret anymore) tip for your hands after climbing: Grade II: Half a day of technical climbing; Grade III: Most of the day will be required for the technical portion of the route. Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least with a difficulty of 5. Sep 16, 2021 · Bouldering Grades vs. (In theory the bouldering grades have upper-case letters, and the route grades have lower-case letters, which the Rock Climbing table gets wrong). French Alpine Grades. 13-. Mar 17, 2023 · 5 (font) to V-scale. Just like the metric system, the French system arguably makes more sense than the American counterpart. Jun 5, 2023 · Indoor climbing grades tend to follow the same grading system as the country that gym is it. g. May 31, 2020 · The Nose on El Capitan is 5. The best way to approach the conversion is to travel, go climbing and get used to the different grades! Have fun! P. I and II: Half a day or less for the technical (5th class) portion of… Read More »Climbing Grade The British Trad Grade is a compound grade evolved from a climbing ethic strongly biased towards onsight traditional or ‘trad’ climbing. French numerical grades. Each type has its own grading system, which allows climbers to compare the difficulty of different routes within their chosen discipline. font I also from France and uses the same grades so it's a bit confusing but that's just the way it is The above appears courtesy of the American Alpine Journal. The British Trad Grade is a compound grade evolved from a climbing ethic strongly biased towards onsight traditional or ‘trad’ climbing. Apr 27, 2025 · Many climbers believe that the French grades are easier, while others believe that the V-scale is more demanding. There’s no standard practice to guide how this comparison should be made. Grade 6A – A climb with an elevation above 3,600 meters (12,000 feet). YDS USA French Ewbanks Australia/NZ UIAA South Africa British UK; 3rd: 1-1: I: 1: There are no letters or secondary grades, just a single number that gets bigger as the routes get harder. Whilst it may appear similar to the French sport grade, the two are not the same - Font grades are much harder - so to distinguish between the two, Font grades have upper case letters (8A), and sport grades Jun 5, 2023 · It’s so easy to get caught up with the grades, but it’s a good idea not to place too much weight on grades while climbing. – 15 to 20 hours of climbing. Climbing Mt. Grade III: Most of a day for the technical portion. Go to climbing r/climbing • View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. Grade VI: Vertical ice and highly technical mixed routes. ? Dec 29, 2020 · UK technical grades were only designed to describe the difficulty of a single move making them unsuitable for grading boulders and V or Font grades are generally used instead. The comparison was never For example, a 5c UK Trad grade is closer matched to a 6b French. It is all subjective. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 5+ V2 6a V3 6a+ V4 (Note: As always, grading can be som Tips for Using Climbing Grade Conversions. Grade V: Typically requires an overnight on the route. Use this chart as a rough guide to compare climbing and bouldering grades in other parts of the world. V is only bouldering, V5 is font 6c+ V6 is font 7a font is the bouldering grading system that's used in Europe a lot, French is for sport climbing. John Gill’s B-system For Bouldering In the 50s and 60s bouldering was seen more as a pastime or fun training for the real stuff – wall climbing. org. There are grade systems for bouldering, grade systems for sport climbing, grade systems for aid climbing and so on but even grade systems for the same style don’t always translate well between each other. The UK initially adopted the ‘Font’ grading system and then, over time, the ‘V’ grading system. The reason being that the width of grades on a specific scale are not comparable or that grades are not linear across the whole scale. Grades can be subjective and may vary slightly between locations or setters. Our climbing grades convertors (both classic routes and boulders) have been made by great climbers, French grades: France, Spain, Switzerland Oct 23, 2023 · The Bouldering V Scale. Since grades are a reflection of what people care about, a grade of 50 can indicate something different in one location versus another. 6a to V-scale. The difference is that with the YDS they have a, b, c and d on top of the number grade, but in the French system, each a, b, and c grade is split again by adding a plus symbol to the harder of the two grades. [2] Jan 28, 2022 · Australian Climbing Grades. – Up to 800 meters (2,600 feet) of ice sections up to Grade V. No, we're not trying to seem all intellectual (okay, maybe a little bit Apr 27, 2025 · The French 8a+ grade represents the upper end of the sport climbing difficulty scale. The Yosemite Decimal System is a sports climbing grading system used primarily in United States and countries that follow the US grading system. Grades can feel harder or easier based on your own style or how much time you’ve spent on similar rock. Jun 10, 2024 · Bouldering and Lead Climbing Grade converters and other tools for rock climbers. Grade VIII and above: The hardest routes in Scotland. Consider the Climbing Style: sport climbing, traditional climbing, and bouldering can have different grading nuances. YDS and French grades don’t always line up precisely, but below is a comparison chart showing how they compare. 7A is a sport climbing route and 7A is a bouldering route, with contrasting difficulties. Adam Ondra on the sport climbing route Silence, the hardest free climbing route in the world and the first-ever at 9c (French), 5. Feb 4, 2015 · Sometimes the conditions and the state of the routes can also influence the grades. Routes may feel substantially harder than their grade indicates depending on the weather, the length of the route, the type of rock, the whims of the first ascensionist, any number of factors. The 7a is the median of the advanced range. 13c, depending on whether you’re using the French or the UIAA system. 🧗♂️ Sports Climbing Grade Converter Convert from French to Yosemite Decimal System and more. Instead, simply use them as a guide to find the type of challenge you are looking for. National Climbing Classification System (USA): NCCS grades, often called “commitment grades,” indicate the time investment in a route for an “average” climbing team. These figures are meant to provide a general sense of the level of skill expected for a route. Please visit them on the web at www. However, you will find that most indoor rock climbing levels use the French sport climbing grades. A bold route with easy climbing, may get the same grade as a much harder sport route, so the grade isn’t very versatile. e. It isn’t too helpful to compare across scales, but it Grade V: Sustained ice to 80º or mixed climbs with linked hard moves. Apr 13, 2025 · Decode YDS, French, and V-grade systems, track skill progression, and choose routes matched to your level. Bouldering Grades vs Climbing Grades. a 7b route is around 5. Dec 10, 2019 · The pure and simple reason for this is because they are most commonly used internationally, and better still because they avoid the inevitable confusion that occurs when people mix the Fontainebleau bouldering grades with French route grades. Climbing Grades vs. It’s a grade where routes are no longer for beginners or weekend climbers. Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least 5. The hardest grade currently is the V17 (9a), this is the top end of the sport and it is very rarely achieved. The idea of the Trad Grade is to give a representation of the whole climb, including overall difficulty, how good the trad climbing gear is (or isn’t) and the hardest single move on the route. However, over time, it became clear that Gill’s grading system was incapable of defining accurate grades for the complexity of boulders being climbed. Climbers need to demonstrate exceptional strength, technique and endurance to complete these ascents. Sport Climbing Grades Two graded climbing routes at an American climbing gym. I only very rarely boulder outdoors but indoors I certainly attach UK tech grades to problems graded with V grades and I can tell the difference between V4, 6a and V4, 6b. You may have climbed French 6c routes but climbing Font 6c is another story. Conversion Chart: YSD vs. Understand the Context: grades are subjective and can vary based on region, climbing style, and even the conditions on the day you climb. Denali via the Cassin Ridge route is 5. Grade VI: Two or more days of hard technical climbing. The French is used in Europe and other regions. 9. – Sections of snow and ice or Dec 29, 2020 · UK technical grades were only designed to describe the difficulty of a single move making them unsuitable for grading boulders and V or Font grades are generally used instead. Bouldering and sport climbing are two siblings in the world of climbing. In sport climbing, it often means 5. In general, theCrag displays grades as they are entered and in the area specific context. So the french boulder grades are harder than the french route grades. 0 (easiest) to 5. 12b, whereas a 7B boulder equals V7, which is 5. International Climbing Grade Comparison Chart. They’re designed for very different kinds and styles of climbing and routes. Nov 3, 2023 · 6a Boulder to V Scale: For those specifically searching for the "6a to V scale" conversion, here it is: 6a in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is approximately equivalent to V3 in the V scale. 15d (American YDS), and XII+ (UIAA). Make sure you’re comparing apples to apples! – Long rock sections of Grades III and IV and up to 50 meters (160 feet) of Grade V. . You’re most likely to come across it at climbing walls (including our own), but it’s also used for bolted outdoor sport climbs. In the French Sport system, grades begin at 1 and increase to 9. In the 1950s, legendary godfather of American bouldering, John Gill, was grading boulders on a super simple scale ascending from B1 to B3. It must be noted, this is an open-ended scale, so there could be harder grades in the future! Are bouldering grades harder than sport climbing grades? It is hard to compare! Even so, as a boulderer, I would lean towards saying, “yes”. Both 6a and 6a+ graded boulders in the font system convert into a V3 bouldering grade in the North American V-scale. For example, if you go to the gym in the UK, most of Europe and Asia, you’ll find French climbing grades. Dec 9, 2024 · Let's talk about climbing grades. Yes, we know the definitions of subjective and objective. Oct 12, 2020 · The French Scale is to the YDS what the metric system is to the American measurement system. Essential reading for rock climbers and boulderers. 6b to V-scale Feb 26, 2021 · Arguably, this is where bouldering began, and the open-ended grade scale that was developed ranges from 1A to 9A (at time of writing). The French numerical system (distinct from the adjectival system, described later) rates a climb according to the overall technical difficulty First up on ‘rock climbing grades explained’ is the French sport grading system. Apr 27, 2025 · Are climbing grades always accurate? Are climbing grades ever really accurate? Not to mention, they represent first ascentionist’s judgment and second ascensionist’s critique. Apr 27, 2025 · Climbing grades, from 8a to V-scale, serve as a loose guideline and filter for climbing consumers. It’s pretty standard practice for most climbers to look at grades to gauge a climb, plan for crux sections, and steer clear of climbs that exceed Apr 27, 2025 · What is French Sport Grade 7a? French Sport Grade 7a is a notable milestone on the sport climbing grading scale. – A climb with an ascent of 800 meters (2,600 feet). Adjectival and Numbered Grades Combined. How can something be both objective and subjective? It's a bit of a paradox, but we'll unravel it. French System: International Mountaineering and Climbing Grade Comparison Chart. They're the way climbers objectively measure the difficulty of different climbs. Personal strengths, body types, and conditions play a huge role in how difficult something is perceived to be. The two grades can then be used together to understand how bold or safe a route will feel. Bouldering grades are graded using different systems across different regions. Standards vary among climbing areas. Rock Climbing Grades: Rock climbing grades typically use one of several grading systems, with the most common being the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) in the United States and the French numerical system (French grades) in Europe. Fontainebleau French. In bouldering, 7c usually means V9. 8 WI4, Grade V. Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco “V” grades (known as the V-scale), Fontainebleau technical grades, and more. 15 (most difficult), with subgrades Apr 27, 2025 · The climbing grade 7c can be confusing if you’re used to a different grading system. These should be considered as very broad guidelines and not hard and fast rules. S. Meaning that for example if you look at a crag in Australia you will most likely see sport and trad climbing grades displayed in Ewbanks and bouldering grades in V-scale. foualaq fqdvs dsxyn trsjhv tgnn msyogi jng whjufn qpjus bqbc