Belaying seconds. They were not designed or certified for this use.

Belaying seconds Belaying two seconds using the Reverso is actually not recommended by Petzl (I asked), and in a few tests I noticed a bit of slipping when only one rope was weighted. This belay device is versatile. Belay device […] Oct 5, 2020 · Each one has its fans and applications. Easy for them to manage slack, when needed. 5kN of holding power (most belay plates hold only 2kN). 97. Lowering off action may be slightly more controllable compared to a grigri but there’s not a lot in it. While belaying may seem straightforward, there are a lot of ways a belayer can make a climber feel safe and secure I pretty much never use a rope fatter than 9. The Aviator also works for belaying seconds off an anchor and can be easily rigged for releasing a load when used off an anchor as well. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Extra friction "V" slots to add more control. Apr 6, 2005 · For belaying seconds easily, you can always use a french styler plaquette (magic plate sort of device) but very rarely the small ropes can flip inside which can be dodgy and mean they don't 'pinch' themselves anymore. If I’m belaying two seconds with a single and a half, I’ll usually use a Gigi instead though. 9 mm A tube device for belaying the leader and one or two seconding climbers. user:xxxx search by author id Dec 15, 2020 · Of course, the way you belay does not only depend on the belay device, but also on the style of climbing. The Pivot belay device delivers confident belaying and effective stopping power whether used in guide mode, or belaying from the waist. Maintain a Solid Stance. PRACTICAL EXPLANATIONS B - MULTI-PITCH ROUTES B5. There are 3 methods of belaying from the top. Guide plates have traditionally been difficult to operate when lowering seconds. And belaying a second in guide mode is terrible. Outdoors on Codidact - open, community-run Q&A knowledge sharing belay device : edelrid MegaJul on a bulletproof triple action carabiner. While belaying leaders and seconds, we found the Smart feeds and takes in slack smoothly; it was slightly less smooth than other devices for rappels or lowering. For these, using a rounder stock like on the Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate will give a smoother feed. May 30, 2025 · 2) For two seconds simultaneously climbing - this will have to be tested to be confirmed but there is definitely potential for issues, more so with different diameter ropes. SKU: N/A Categories: Belay Devices , Climbing , Hardware The classic device for belaying seconds with an auto-lock, it can also be used for other applications such as an emergency ascender, crevase rescue, and lowering heavy loads. This product is currently out of stock and unavailable. This is a feature available in the Petzl Reverso line as well, but the key difference is that the carabiner eyelet is oriented perpendicular to that of the Reverso. But as one of the lightest devices in this review, at a modest price, and with all its benefits, this is an amazing tool. The Aviator's unique ergonomic "fin" can be used to modulate speed while Microtrax is amazing for a few things: rope solo (duh) groups of 3 (ehhhhh) simul climbing (for sure) But I have never felt a want or need to use it as a belay device because I generally have a belay device on me, and because if the follower were to fall, especially on steep terrain, it's much more difficult (in my opinion) to lower to a stance safely. 0 locks onto s 3 Methods Of Belaying From Above. It offers basically all the features of the ATC XP, as well auto-locking top-belay for belaying seconds. Belaying up 2 seconds on one rope? So my friend recently told me that they did a route as a party of 3 on one rope. Delivery within 24/48h. The Micros I save for SUPER thin half and twin ropes. I can't comment on how well it works for belaying seconds off anchors because I don't do that. Two techniques may be used: belaying with the device on the anchor, or belaying with the device on the harness with the rope redirected. 0 Belay/Rappel Device Kit has been designed to deliver optimal performance with the new generation of skinny ropes that have gained popularity in recent years. 3 - ALPINE UP - GUIDE MODE BELAYING THE SECONDS The diagram to the right shows the use of A is The CAMP Piu 2. Lucky for me that they did not fall, but that was a wake up call, so now I study the correct usage of my devices. Searching for the best climbing belay device? Over the past 12 years, we've tested over 26 different individual models, with 17 choices highlighted in our updated review. Another consideration is how far above you the device is when bringing seconds up. 8 - 9. A stable stance while belaying allows you to react quickly and efficiently to any falls or movements your climber makes. com - Rope installation diagrams for belaying and Reverso mode are engraved on the device; Multipurpose use for single and multi-pitch climbing, and mountaineering: - Can be used to belay a climber or to rappel on one or two rope strands - Reverso mode allows the user to belay one or two seconds with assisted braking Intuitive and easy to use, the BE UP has a modular braking system to optimise braking with all types of rope and allow the auto-locking and independent belaying of two seconds. Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today; Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today; Indirect belay; These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is Mar 22, 2002 · Remember me Not recommended on shared computers. Interested by the wild country revo and the new petzl Neox, didn't tried either. The Aviator: the belay device made better. The Aviator's unique ergonomic "fin" can be used to modulate speed while lowering or descending. Considering a grivel shuttle belaying seconds , not in stock anywhere atm. Multiuse belay / abseil device with innovative and compact design (registered design), suitable for use with half, twin and single ropes for mountaineering, multi-pitch sport climbing and trad routes. I remember seeing people comment about this on the mountainproject. Specifically designed for use with skinny ropes Can be rigged in auto-block mode for belaying two seconds Diagonal cable prevents the rope from rubbing and jamming The Più 2. The ATC Guide does all three, and it comes at a low weight and low price. Extreme flexibility permits: effective belaying of the leader. 0 has been designed to deliver optimal performance with the new generation of skinny ropes that have gained popularity in recent years. Jun 16, 2024 · Otherwise, locks off great for working moves, belaying seconds and top roping. 9mm difference it's probably a very small Feb 6, 2021 · Belaying a follower with a GriGri is almost as easy as belaying a follower with a micro traxion and way more versatile. Reverso mode for belaying one or two seconds with assisted. The CAMP Piu 2. Jun 17, 2024 · It allows automatic rope locking during falls, reducing workload and providing a secure system for managing rope tension while belaying from above or lowering climbers. Using a variable notched design with smooth teeth on the brake side of the device along with narrower slots for the rope, the Piu 2. Belaying is a skill that takes time and practice to master. Can al Dec 18, 2009 · This becomes exponential in parties of three when belaying two seconds simultaneously. I find it to be easier management in the long run to keep them separate, especially on a small stance (where I use a double-length sling on the anchor to hold one rope; the other I flake on my tie-in). Forged and machined aircraft aluminum body for light weight and optimal heat dissipation, the Aviator's unique removable spring keeps the device from locking when you feed the rope. Other belaying systems include the figure-eight follow-through and the clove hitch. Can be used as an ascender. Seconds A second is the base unit of time. Weight: 89 g Jun 16, 2024 · Otherwise, locks off great for working moves, belaying seconds and top roping. I feel like there are a few situations (though unlikely) when you might want a third hand on the rope. They were not designed or certified for this use. May 7, 2009 · It doesn't lock up when belaying, doesn't chatter when rappelling, and just 'feels right' in both modes which is rare. locking carabiner : edelrid bulletproof are nice for first draw and top rope. - Independent and simultaneous belaying of two seconds in Reverso mode - While belaying in Reverso mode, a carabiner placed in the release hole allows the belayer to give slack when the device is under tension - Quick changeovers from Reverso mode to belaying the leader when climbing multi-pitch routes **A single device for all rope types:** Not that long ago, I used an autoblock device (an old one with all the markings gone) incorrectly while belaying seconds up an easy route due to my misunderstanding of the autoblock mechanisms. Dec 5, 2024 · Every multi-pitch climber needs a device for belaying the leader, a device for belaying the follower, and a device for rappelling. Jun 3, 2015 · Belaying two seconds at the same time is easy if they pace each other (let the slower climber go first, so the faster one can easily keep pace), or you can belay them up one at a time. . Intuitive and easy to use, the BE UP has a modular braking system to optimise braking with all types of rope and allow the auto-locking and independent belaying of two seconds. 5 mm and single ropes ≥ 8. It's great for belaying seconds off an anchor and can be easily set up to release a load in the same situation. I tend to walk in and out a lot belaying single pitch, and this basically removes the need to do that when a leader is clipping. How can I improve my belaying skills? The best way to improve your belaying skills is to practice often. I've used it for 7. Sign In. The Pivot’s shackle reduces the force needed to initiate lowering, increasing control of the speed at which you lower your second. If you're really good, you can belay one of your seconds as they lead the next pitch while simultaneously belaying up your other second. When you’re belaying a top rope climber, you will mostly be taking in slack as the Dec 12, 2015 · The belayer typically uses a DMM bugette, and the leader climbs with a micro jul. In both cases, the rope must be installed in the device in the same way, respecting the marking indicating the climber side of the rope. If you make sure to thread the biner correctly when top belaying, there are no safety issues. keep your brake lines under control. Read Grivel Master Pro Belay/Rappel Device reviews online. – can belay the leader, one or two seconds and can be used for rappelling – independent and simultaneous belaying of two seconds in Reverso mode – for swapping leads (team of 2), offers a quick transition from Reverso mode to belaying the leader; The V-shaped friction channels: – give greater braking power on thin ropes A tube device for belaying the leader and one or two seconding climbers. Cool Tech: cooling holes help in removing snow/ice and mud. Mad Rock Aviator Belay Devices Silver 699305-Silver. 2 though. The Aviator: the belay device mad… A single device for belaying the leader, one or two seconding climbers and for rappelling. one negative for belaying 2 seconds with the atc in guide mode: if the pitch is overhanging and some weights the device, you may have to be extra cautious so the device actually locks the other follower, i. Forgot your password? Sign Up Its unique removable spring solves a common problem with regular tube - style devices: it prevents locking when feeding the rope. 1. When belaying seconds up it can be used as an autoblocking belay directly from the anchor point. Oct 11, 2013 · A tube device for belaying the leader and one or two seconding climbers. Belaying the second with a MICRO TRAXION or NANO TRAXION: beware of any fall MICRO TRAXION and NANO TRAXION are not belay devices. Generally, auto-blocking works well for belaying seconds form over waist level anchors, some climbers prefer assisted braking and some tube mode, depending on ease of handling, the thinness of the rope and the experience level/weight difference/ number of hangs the leader is likely to take. A completely round stock locking carabiner that holds the rope in, like the Metolius Element does help lower the friction some, but it is still far harder to pull rope through than any other guide mode belay device. If you are belaying two seconds, this allows the top belayer to continue to pull rope on one side while the other is weighted from a fall. They haven't been fallen on but from testing the bugette seems to catch easier. Top Rope. When belaying seconds, can be used as an assisted speed control belay. They tied an alpine butterfly a few meters from the belay end of the rope for one second and the other second tied in normally from the end. 0 locks onto s tag:snake search within a tag. You'll end up with climbers elbow in no time belaying seconds with this device. The particular shape of the BE UP‘s body allows rope to be paid out fluidly, rapidly and without jams; Belaying the second with a MICRO TRAXION or NANO TRAXION: beware of any fall MICRO TRAXION and NANO TRAXION are not belay devices. The raised rib in the center of one side allows one person to hang while the other climbs, a useful feature for any climber and especially for trip There are several different types of belaying systems, but the most common one is the Munter hitch. Feb 9, 2020 · How to belay properly is the most essential skill in climbing, because catching a fall well hinges entirely on the belayer. Dec 9, 2008 · The Munter hitch often gets a bad press because it tends to twist modern ropes (this isn’t so bad if you use HMS krabs), yet is one of the most important belaying techniques to learn as it requires nothing more than a karabiner to work, yet still provides up to 2. For practical reasons, however, they are sometimes used to belay a climber from the top anchor of a route. The particular shape of the BE UP‘s body allows rope to be paid out fluidly, rapidly and without jams; Jan 24, 2010 · The speed of your seconds and your belay stance will dictate whether to flake both ropes together or separately. classic belay technique with both hands on the rope ropes glide smoothly through the device can be used for rappels Reverso mode for belaying one or two seconds; commonly used on multi-pitch climbs independent and simultaneous belaying of two seconds in Reverso mode while belaying in Reverso mode, a carabiner placed in the release hole […] Shop Grivel Master Pro Belay/Rappel Device at deporvillage for only £20. user:xxxx search by author id Other features include the ability to set up the device in auto-block mode for belaying two seconds, a large rigging hole that allows a locking carabiner to rotate all the way through, a specially shaped hole that captures the nose of a keylock carabiner (specifically designed for use with the HMS Nitro and HMS Compact Lock carabiners) which Oct 30, 2016 · Just curious why I've never seen anything about backing up a belay (with a friction hitch). Due to the different thickness the belay device will need a slightly different angle to "lock" for each rope, though for a 0. The particular shape of the BE UP‘s body allows rope to be paid out fluidly, rapidly and without jams; Sep 20, 2014 · I'm not a certified guide, but personally prefer belaying seconds on the Reverso for its lack of weight and active camming device. The belayer must never let go of the brake side of the rope. Rope compatibility: for use on half ropes & twin ropes ≥ 7. e. Jul 13, 2012 · V-shaped friction channels with asymmetrical lateral grooves adapt the friction to the type of rope for better control (ARC technology: braking control for twin, half and single dynamic ropes). This mode is particularly beneficial for leaders belaying seconds in complex terrain, ensuring smooth rope control and minimizing risks. It is the basis for a relationship of absolute trust between climber and belayer, because the belayer, literally, holds the climber’s life in their hands. answers:0 unanswered questions. 1 Definition and Purpose of Guide Mode May 22, 2023 · The Best Belay Devices. 8 thin ropes and my main complaint is that they don't make a larger one for normal ropes. T Forged and machined aircraft aluminum body for light weight and optimal heat dissipation, the Aviator's unique removable spring keeps the device from locking when you feed the rope. Extra friction V-slots add more control and smoothness. Here are some tips and general aspects to remember when belaying with a top rope, belaying a lead climber, and multi-pitch belaying. Originally, it was based on the length of the day, but it has since been standardized based on the radiation wavelength of caesium-133. Taking a few extra seconds to double-check the setup ensures a safer climb for everyone involved. May 5, 2025 · Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value: Lightweight, easy to unlock, great for belaying two skinny ropes: Compact, ergonomically pays out slack while lead belaying, easy to use: Simple to use, great for belaying the follower, lightweight, feeds slack easily Sep 20, 2014 · I'm not a certified guide, but personally prefer belaying seconds on the Reverso for its lack of weight and active camming device. In addition, the small tail is used as an aid to easily increase friction when desired. The oval shape that the I-beam construction imparts increases the friction when used as a belay locker or when belaying seconds in guide mode. Having the follower self belay on a GriGri may also be preferable to self belaying with a micro traxion. com forums, but can't find those particular comments. tag:snake search within a tag. Like Joe said, when properly used/oriented, the Grigri works fine though. For rock and alpine guides it avoids the tendinitis associated with pulling ropes through auto block devices. For this reason, almost every serious climber owns this device or one of its closest competitors. steujcj hzlr wsrtip lwnl otjni hvlidj eaafwko gnstezh kzadakd whqjku